Posted on March 24th
Project
Doing finishing jobs around the house is an accessible and enjoyable task, even for a DIY apprentice. Installing interior moldings is just the kind of easy and enjoyable do-it-yourself job.
First of all
Aside from creating the decor, most moldings have a dual effect. The molding around a door or window hides the frame and structure; the bottom skirting board in turn camouflages the space between the wall and the floor covering. It therefore becomes inevitable.
The molding is available in different materials. MDF (pine fiber) moldings are economical and easy to cut. It only has a primer and needs to be varnished after fixing.
Wooden slats are also an option. In maple, oak or pine, it can be stained, waxed, oiled or lacquered. Although it’s more expensive, it’s strong and very durable. The finger-jointed pine model is a cheap option for a wood molding, but it should be varnished for a better finished look.
The molding creates a trompe-l’oeil. To make it work well, make sure you don’t force anything.
The tools
- tape measure
- miter saw (ideal)
- Air or battery powered nail gun (ideal)
- level
- cartridge gun
How it goes
1. Measure the molding. Place your tape measure across the edge of the face-framing hem to the other hem.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
We start by measuring the molded part.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
The hem is often shaped and is approximately 1/8 inch.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
The rabbet of the door frame serves as an aesthetic guide to reset the molding.
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2. Cut out the molding. Check, adjust and repair. Your saw blade is 1/8 inch. Be sure to place your blade right side up to get the accurate measurement. A tip: Measure at the long tip, this is easier to see when cutting with a miter saw. Otherwise draw everything to guide you.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Cut the bar with a miter saw.
We are seeing more and more door and window frames with straight cuts for a contemporary look. If you choose this option, for ease of installation, attach the top bar first, then the sides.
Patrick Mathon, ICK Company
3. Attach the strips. Use a pneumatic nail gun. She is fast and precise. The advantage of the straight, profile-free, modern molding is that it can be sanded for a better fit. Hammer in your nail heads if necessary.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Use a pneumatic nail gun to attach the moldings.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Make sure your angle is properly aligned at 45 degrees. Otherwise, readjust with a pry tool and nail directly into the molding to solidify everything.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Add 1/16 inch on the hinge side to prevent the molding from rubbing against the hinge, straining and making noise.
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last step
4. Pull a latex cord. The latex acts as an adhesive to solidify the molding and aesthetically hides the shading and brings back the line. Also fill in corners or cut edges. This finishing piece adds an essential aesthetic aspect.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Pull a latex bead to solidify the molding and create a more aesthetic finish. It can also be painted.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
The latex cord hides the shading and brings back the line.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Also fill in the corners and raw edges.
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Tip: Have a damp cloth ready. It helps keep your fingers clean and moist so they slide over the latex. You can also remove the excess at the same time.
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A bit further
The use of classic moldings, assembled according to a proven pattern, can create an interesting decor at low cost. The success of this type of project lies in planning and in making good use of space (and your imagination!) to achieve a wall with different and personalized accents. Some companies specializing in wall coverings can offer you moldings with stylish profiles or offer combinations of moldings that, when properly assembled, create different and remarkable decors.