Cillian Murphy, Colman Domingo, Jacob Elordi, Pedro Pascal and Timothée Chalamet
Samir Hussein/WireImage; Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic; Weiss Eubanks/NBCUniversal via Getty Images; John Shearer/WireImage; Julien Hekimian/WireImage
Men's fashion is reaching new levels of creativity and expressiveness this year, thanks in part to the “Timothée Chalamet effect.” “You feel like nothing matters,” says stylist Michael Fisher (who made tailored skirts a red carpet staple for his client Oscar Isaac last year).
Taking risks and relaxing silhouettes, says stylist duo Wayman + Micah, comes from the fact that “men in Hollywood want to have just as much fun with their looks, not to mention the trends of androgyny and unisexual clothing in our culture has an influence on acceptance.”
Flaunt
Instead of the obvious shirtless approach, many male stars opted for sensual layering by pairing suits and sweaters with sheer shirts.
“You still get body, but not obvious body,” says stylist Fisher, whose client Tom Blyth (The Hunger Games: The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes) wore a sheer tank and cardigan from AMI Paris in November.
From left: Tom Blyth in a sheer AMI top, Oliver Jackson-Cohen in AMI, Cillian Murphy in Saint Lauren and Nicholas Galitzine in Fendi. Theo Wargo/Getty Images; Lia Toby/Getty Images; Samir Hussein/WireImage; Gilbert Flores/Variety via Getty Images
The trick also enhances a smart suit, like Nicholas Galitzine's fishnet peeking out of an embellished Fendi jacket, styled by Felicity Kay, or Oliver Jackson-Cohen's suit and AMI Paris top at the British Independent Film Awards.
More formal but just as steamy: Cillian Murphy, styled by Rose Forde, dazzled in a sheer button-down shirt under a Saint Laurent suit for Oppenheimer's London premiere.
Reinterpreted suits
Suits in 2023 remained tailored but broke the mold with shapes, embellishments and innovations.
From left: Idris Elba in Eve of Winston, Romeo Beckham in Louis Vuitton, Charles Melton in Balenciaga, J Balvin in CMMAWEAR, Colman Domingo in Boss and Taika Waititi in Prabal Gurung. Amy Sussman/Getty Images; Mike Marsland/WireImage; Natasha Campos/Getty Images; Todd Owyoung/NBC via Getty Images; Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic; Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images
At the GQ Man of the Year party, Colman Domingo stood out in a cream boss suit with a duster jacket and long shawl collar. “Colman wears these modern suit silhouettes with so much confidence, and we know he's always willing to take risks when we show him something outside the box,” say his stylists Wayman + Micah.
Styled by Samantha McMillan for the LA premiere in May and December, Charles Melton caused whiplash in a double-wide-leg Balenciaga suit that combined the skirt and oversized trends in an original way.
Romeo Beckham supported the premiere of his father David Beckham's Netflix documentary in a playfully sophisticated Louis Vuitton suit by the late Virgil Abloh with a streamlined buttonless wrap-front jacket and oversized pleated trousers. “I loved that it was loose and not so traditional, but it was a suit,” says stylist Cheryl Konteh.
Stylist and Anonymous content manager Jeanne Yang likes to pile on flowers, boutonnieres and jewelry, like Taika Waititi's Cartier pearls that accented his long Prabal Gurung tuxedo at the Met Gala. “There will just be a lot more accessories,” Yang predicts.
Idris Elba expands the usual definition of a suit by highlighting looks from his upcoming men's collection “Eve of Winston”: jewel-toned, tunic-like matching sets with ornamentally pleated panels and intricate cutouts. “It's inspired by Idris' African heritage and a traditional suit,” says Konteh, his stylist and co-designer.
The right to bear arms
Magnificent biceps and deltoids reigned supreme, not just to stay cool (literally and figuratively) but also to communicate topics.
From left: Timothée Chalamet in Tom Ford, Barry Keoghan in Givenchy, Simu Liu in Fendi, Lee Pace in Prada and Danny Ramirez in Wales Bonner. Julien Hekimian/WireImage; Emma McIntyre/Getty Images; Wiktor Szymanowicz/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images; Dave Bennett/Getty Images; Mike Coppola/WireImage
At the European premiere of Barbie in July, Yang — co-styled with Chloe Takayanagi and Ella Rose Harrington — dressed Simu Liu as a “modern Ken” in Fendi's floral-embroidered Spring 2024 set with a varsity sweater flourish.
For the latest Mission: Impossible premiere, Top Gun: Maverick actor Danny Ramirez revealed his weapons with a vest and jewelry. “We liked the idea of Danny wearing this beautiful sleeveless vest from Wales Bonner with one [David Yurman] “It was a brooch to a big action movie because it felt genderless and modern,” say Wayman + Micah.
Lee Pace's armor-like Prada leather vest with Balenciaga pants matched his beefy body in the sci-fi series Foundation. “He wanted to create a tongue-in-cheek moment,” says Fisher, who also considers practicality and location for any of his arm-baring clients. “Wearing sleeveless clothing in Berlin seems a little thirsty, but sleeveless clothing in Los Angeles seems a little more appropriate for the climate.”
Calming sweaters
Knitwear – which offers an unconventional yet comfortably familiar alternative to a blazer or coat – went viral in 2023.
From left: Ryan Gosling in a King & Tuckfield cardigan, Micheal Ward in Burberry, Jonathan Bailey in Thom Browne, Jacob Elordi in a Prada sweater and Troye Sivan in Loewe. Jon Kopaloff/Getty Images; Dave Bennett/Getty Images; Rodin Eckenroth/Getty Images; Weiss Eubanks/NBCUniversal via Getty Images; Arnold Jerocki/Getty Images
Saltburn and Priscilla's heartthrob Jacob Elordi continued his charm offensive on the Kelly Clarkson Show in a yellow Prada sweater. “The color was really the star. It definitely took the look a step forward,” says Wendi Ferreira from the styling duo Wendi and Nicole. Pairing the soft knit with slouchy Saint Laurent jeans and a chest-baring Hanes tank felt “super approachable and almost more intimate,” she adds.
Pedro Pascal in Gucci last February. Emma McIntyre/WireImage
Earlier this year, Pedro Pascal, promoting The Mandalorian, launched the Sweater Daddy phenomenon, first in a cognac Acne Studios waffle-knit cardigan over a gray Hanes tank and red pants. He then impersonated the crushable teacher in full Gucci attire with a marigold sweater draped around his shoulders. “Choosing knitwear in different fits and colors felt fresh and unprecedented, but also accessible to a wide audience. “It was fun to see how big an impact it had on people,” says his stylist Julie Ragolia, who has also worked with Riz Ahmed and LaKeith Stanfield. “I enjoy using the Internet for my customers.”
For Micheal Ward (Empire of Light), Konteh contrasted argyle and window checks in a Burberry ensemble. She likens the look to a “sharp suit – the patterns are incredibly strong.”
Statement shorts
Although it's still surprising, shorts are now part of the red carpet dress code.
From left: Aaron Jackson and Josh Sharp in Loewe, Ncuti Gatwa in Custom Valentino, Morgan Spector in Kenzo and Pedro Pascal in Valentino. Monica Schipper/WireImage; Wiktor Szymanowicz/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images; John Nacion/Getty Images; John Shearer/WireImage
Exhibit A-Plus: Pascal's custom-made Valentino Met Gala ensemble, revealing black hot pants under a red coat. “I don’t like conventions, so I often do things to challenge or change the status quo,” says Ragolia. “Plus, Pedro looked sexy and felt great.”
At a Barbie premiere, new Doctor Who Ncuti Gatwa turned heads, also styled by Kay, in sparkling silver tailored Valentino shorts and a flowing cape.
The Gilded Age's Morgan Spector made an impact in a skater-boi-meets-robber-baron-Kenzo look for Spring 2024. “We wanted to pay homage to Morgan's dapper character Mr. Russell and find a fresh and contemporary twist,” says stylist Bailey Moon and enjoys the “juxtaposition” of the tailored elements of the baby blue ensemble and the flash of “shin” between the athletic elements of socks and board shorts.
However, Aaron Jackson and Josh Sharp went the furthest when they embraced this year's pantsless street style craze at Loewe at the premiere of Dicks: The Musical. The film's writers envisioned a “gay Dumb and Dumber” character, which Fisher was happy to oblige. “The Loewe was perfect. They are twins. It's stupid. It's fun,” says the stylist, who dressed them in the label's crushed velvet sweatshirts and casual ankle boots. “I knew they would be the ones to try.”
A version of this story first appeared in the Dec. 15 issue of magazine. Click here to login.