Bahian saleswoman makes pink acarajé
Barbie’s acarajé challenge caused controversy in Salvador. After saleswoman Adriana Ferreira dos Santos released the pink delicacy in a nod to the Barbie doll movie, which opens this week, the colorful acarajé has been the subject of criticism, including from the National Association of Baianas de Acarajé (ABAM) .
Company President Rita Santos said the pink cupcake didn’t reflect the tradition of selling acarajé. The craft of the Acarajé Baianas is considered an intangible cultural heritage of Brazil.
“It’s a heritage, not just the craft, but also our Acarajé. For me (the pink acarajé) isn’t an acarajé either, it’s just a bean cake. And you can’t call her Baiana,” criticized Rita Santos.
“We have two terms: the Baiana de Acarajé, de facto and de jure, who are those who preserve our culture, who value our ancestors, and those who are merely salesmen who sell for the money. This is one that sells for the money. She doesn’t appreciate our heritage, she doesn’t appreciate our heritage,” continued ABAM’s President.
The chairman of the association said that Adriana Ferreira’s action devalues black culture in addition to the craft of the Bahian acarajé. She even criticized the attention given to the Barbie doll.
1 of 4 Pink Acarajé for sale this week only in Salvador Photo: Social Networks Pink Acarajé for sale in Salvador this week only Photo: Social Networks
“White people don’t care about what’s ours. Why should we value what is theirs? We, the state of Bahia, which has the largest number of black people, must cherish what is ours, the black people, because we will give something. “Ibope’ for Barbie?”
The pink acarajé creator is defending herself, saying it was just a joke made for this week when the film hits theaters.
“It’s a joke because of the premiere of the film. We’re only going to do it this week. This does not affect traditions in any way. I like being innovative. I always care about quality and how to bring my product to them (customers)”, said the owner of Acarajé from Drica.
The seller also stated that she was not bothered by the criticism. She also explained that the pink color doesn’t alter the flavor of the acarajé because it uses unflavored dye.
2 of 4 Bahian vendor making pink acarajé — Photo: social media Bahian vendor making pink acarajé — photo: social media
“I don’t care, it’s unhappy people (who criticize). It doesn’t change the taste. I am an acarajé trader. It’s our livelihood. Everything I do creates controversy and I always think about quality.” . There is a severe lack of empathy (of those who criticize). There’s no need,” he defended.
Drica has been selling Acarajé and Abará in the Salvador suburbs for 15 years and is known for always using the “differential” in her sales. Six years ago, she became known in the region for selling acarajé and abará on the sushi boat. Now it’s Barbie’s Acarajé’s turn.
3 von 4 Acarajé is a bean dumpling fried in palm oil. — Photo: personal archive Acarajé is a bean dumpling fried in palm oil. — Photo: Personal archive
Acarajé is a bean dumpling fried in palm oil. The batter consists of ground blackeyed peas, water, salt and onions. It used to take Bahian women a whole day to shell the blackeyed peas and prepare the acarajé batter. Today they buy it already peeled, which saves time, keeps the same taste and also costs less.
The onion is mixed with the batter just before frying the dumplings in palm oil. The filling consists of vatapá, caruru and dried (smoked) shrimp.
4 of 4 Ceremony marks the distribution of Abarás and Acarajés in Salvador — Photo: Max Haack/Ag Haack Ceremony marks the distribution of Abarás and Acarajés in Salvador — Photo: Max Haack/Ag Haack
The preparation of àkàrà je, which means eating a fireball in the Yoruba language, ended up in Brazil along with slaves from the Gulf of Benin in West Africa. In the candomblé universe, acarajé is a sacred and ritual food offered to the orixás, which is one of the reasons the acarajé recipe remains unchanged.
Acarajé chunks of blackeyed pea fried in palm oil was passed down orally from generation to generation over the centuries and was sold by slave or freed black women during the colonial era to help them survive after slavery was abolished.
Centuries later, the profession won the Baiana do Acarajé National Day celebrated on November 25, and since 2017 the profession has been included in the list of the Brazilian classification of professions.
For more state news, see g1 Bahía.