When we think of facial wrinkles, the first things that come to mind are forehead lines, eye lines, and frown lines, all of which are located on the upper half of the face. However, through early care and increasing infiltration with neuromodulators such as botulinum toxin, these wrinkles can be easily prevented and eliminated. But what do we do with the ones that appear on the lower half of our face? Nasolabial folds, the vertical lines of the lips and the wrinkles that extend from the corner of the mouth to the jaw and chin, become more pronounced with age and present an aesthetic challenge.
First of all, we clarify that facial wrinkles are skin folds that appear in youth with the first expression lines and that form over the years; But not all wrinkles are the same. “In youth, we all have expression lines in areas such as crow’s feet, forehead and brow. These so-called dynamic wrinkles disappear when we stop making the expression that causes them, so we don't have to worry about them a priori,” explains Bella Hurtado, technical director of Boutijour. In the lower third of the face, however, wrinkles are static. “They are so called because they do not disappear when the face rests. Although they can be caused by expression lines that arise from repetitive movements and gestures, their presence is linked to the aging process. As we age, both facial fat deposits and bone support lose volume. In addition, the production of collagen and elastin decreases, the facial support ligaments become slack and sagging occurs. All these factors create deep and pronounced wrinkles that are visible to the naked eye,” says Dr. Lia Fabiano, owner of the LF Clínic clinics in Barcelona and Mallorca.
Why are puppet lines so concerning?
We only notice their existence when they appear because they evoke an unflattering gesture of bitterness and sadness. Like Dr. Fabiano notes, “genetic predisposition affects their appearance, as does abuse of the sun, which is responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin fibers, essential for the strength of the skin.” The natural aging process causes the cheekbones to become Lose volume and projection, then the law of gravity kicks in and the tissue sags, resulting in more volume in the lower third of the face. The chin blurs and creates nasolabial folds, folds that run from the nostrils to the corner of the nose, and marionette lines, deep folds that run from the mouth to the chin. Grooves and lines are one of the biggest aesthetic problems after the age of 50.” Experts recommend only seeing a professional if wrinkles become visible while at rest. After the age of 30, our body's collagen production begins to decline, but genetics plays an important role in the formation of lines and wrinkles. If you still don't have wrinkles at rest, a good prevention routine can delay their appearance and reduce them.
Do cosmetics work?
To avoid their occurrence, it is best to invest in prevention with a routine rich in active ingredients that promote hydration and the synthesis of collagen and elastin. “Cosmetics that are rich in vitamin C and other antioxidants such as copper PCA help, as does the well-known hyaluronic acid, which promotes the balance of the skin by storing and providing moisture and making it look plump.” Products that are rich are also interesting “Peptides are amino acid chains that stimulate collagen,” says Elisabeth San Gregorio, technical director of Medik8. Estefanía Nieto, from the Omorovicza brand, explains: “We cannot ignore retinoids, they are great allies that can work on the youthfulness of the skin.” They renew the deeper layers of tissue, blurring fine lines and ensuring a smoother and more even face. Daily sun protection is also essential.”
If wrinkles have already appeared and are very fixed on the skin, we can resort to more effective active ingredients that can reverse the aging process. “Glutathione, the body's most important antioxidant, visibly reduces the appearance of deep wrinkles and strengthens the skin by protecting, repairing and detoxifying. Neuropeptides are also ideal for eliminating pronounced wrinkles,” adds Raquel González, expert at Perricone MD.
Is there an anti-wrinkle diet?
The experts surveyed agree that a healthy diet can make a decisive contribution to preventing wrinkles. “Excessive consumption of refined sugar has no benefits for the body or skin. Sugar is involved in a chemical process called glycation, which causes oxidative damage and premature aging. “In addition, it destroys collagen and elastin, proteins responsible for strength,” explains Dr. Kira Visenberg from Clínica Premium Marbella. Dr. Fabiano points out: “Sugar is not good, but what kills wrinkles is the habit of smoking and drinking alcohol.” The distillation or fermentation of some drinks directly clogs the dermis and takes away its luminosity. Not to mention the damage tobacco causes. I have done studies on the skin of smokers and the results are devastating. In smokers, the elastin content is reduced by 68%, which leads to a greater tendency to loss of firmness and the formation of wrinkles. In addition to the characteristic gray tone of a poorly oxygenated complexion and the bar code, these vertical perioral wrinkles are so characteristic of people who smoke.”
Gestures that speed up wrinkles
Obsessive postures and facial expressions promote the formation of wrinkles. The good news is that some of these can be avoided. There are many unconscious movements that we repeat several times throughout the day. Frowning causes wrinkles between the eyebrows that give the appearance of anger; Smoking or drinking straight from a bottle promotes the appearance of the barcode, and excessive jaw clenching causes wrinkles on the chin. We also have to be careful when looking at the cell phone, because bending the neck forward creates the famous Venus necklaces or the smartphone neck. Sleeping on your side is also not advisable, as it promotes the formation of vertical wrinkles on the forehead, between the eyebrows and in the nasolabial fold, and favors the appearance of spots on the cheeks and décolleté,” explains Kira Visenberg of Clínica Premium Marbella. The beautician Carmen Navarro is clear: “To avoid this, the ideal is to sleep on your back and choose soft fabrics for the pillow.” Silk or satin does not wrinkle and does not stick to the skin as much as cotton. There are also anti-wrinkle pillows. When you get up in the morning, I recommend doing a massage on your face and chin area to stimulate blood circulation.”
Five minutes daily massage
Moisturizing the skin is important, but small gestures when applying cosmetics promote the penetration of the active ingredients and help reduce wrinkles. “When applying facial cosmetics, we always recommend spending a few minutes activating or stimulating the tissue through simple tightening maneuvers from the corner of the lip to the hairline at eye level. This can be done manually or with the help of gua sha stones,” says Patricia Cuenca, director of Oxigen. A light massage relaxes the muscles, stimulates the formation of fibroblasts, improves skin microcirculation and strengthens the tissue. Beautician Carmen Navarro recommends “performing intensive pinches in the area of the upper lip, corners of the mouth and chin for five minutes every night to eliminate signs of tension.” You can then use gentler movements to work on the nasolabial folds and marionette folds in detail. Gadgets such as massage rollers or similar Ghua Sha stones They also help the product penetrate the skin layers. They improve blood circulation and contribute to firmer skin Redefine the contours and facial volume.” For better handling of these stones, the use of oils or creams is ideal as they glide more easily. Additionally, the massage is enhanced if you cool the stone before use.
7 cabin treatments that soften marionette lines
The avalanche of aesthetic treatments to treat marionette lines and tight facial contours is almost endless. And as always, to do it right, you need to put yourself in the hands of experts to find the right solution. Let's look at the most popular treatments:
Radio frequency and ultrasound: When the problem starts, Thermage radio frequency can stop it at the root. Like Dr. Beatriz Beltrán from BB Clinic notes: “Thermage improves expression lines and sagging, repositions fat and thickens the skin.” In addition, you can act on specific areas, such as the lower third of the face, depending on the patient’s needs. The effect is very natural.” High-intensity focused ultrasound is also useful for providing additional firmness to mild wrinkles. “Although they are not applied directly to the marionette line area, the traction points provide a harmonious and effective tightening effect,” concludes Oxigen’s Patricia Cuenca.
Chemical peels: They are very effective because they work at different depths of the skin. “There are superficial, medium and deep treatments and they are carried out depending on the needs of each patient. These peels are medical, that is, they are carried out in consultation to remove the superficial layers of skin in a controlled manner, smooth wrinkles and accelerate cell renewal, which slows down over the years. At home, I also recommend regular, gentler peels, always with specific indications for each skin type,” says surgeon Lia Fabiano.
Hyaluronic acid. One of the most effective treatments for contour maintenance is hyaluronic acid infiltration. The MaiLi filler manages to reposition tissue and volume and mark the jawline. “I don't use it to fill wrinkles or simply add volume to the cheekbones, but rather to create a sort of 'fabric frame' that supports and tightens the muscle at a deeper level. “80% of hyaluronic acid penetrates bones and ligaments,” explains Dr. Jorge Mercado, aesthetic doctor and inventor of this technique.
Collagen inducers: Inductors like Sculptra manage to tighten the lower third of the face while maintaining a natural expression. “It offers one immediate lifting effect with gradual and progressive results. This is because the inducers promote the production of natural collagen, which is why the maximum result is achieved three months after treatment. We can apply the product with vectors to get an instant tensor effect. It is the ideal treatment to prevent and correct signs of sagging and restore the beauty triangle without adding volume,” says Dr. Alicia Merino from Dermik.
Neuromodulators: If the wrinkles are soft and detected in time, they can be treated with relaxing toxins. “They loosen existing lines and prevent new ones from forming. They are applied to the upper lip to treat smoker's wrinkles and in the area in front of the double chin to relax the wrinkles at the corners of the mouth downwards,” adds Visenberg.
Fractional radio frequency. The star of this device that combines microneedles with radiofrequency is undoubtedly Morpheus 8, but what does it achieve? “The results are amazing because it smoothes wrinkles without any filler. I like to work flat, about 2 millimeters, and then finish the treatment with an exosome mask with regenerating power,” says Fabiano.
Laser: Depending on the depth of the wrinkles and the length of time the CO2 laser is very effective. “It removes the most superficial layers to renew the epidermis, while at the same time regenerating the deeper layers, such as the dermis, and tightening the skin.” “In this way we manage to eliminate wrinkles, combat sagging skin and improve quality to improve the skin,” concludes Fabiano.