Not long ago it was common to claim that excellent red wines of maximum expression and elegance could not be created with the Monastrell grape of Spanish origin (also called Morastel, Morrastell or Vermeta), called Mourvèdre in France and Mataró in the rest of the world to be produced. . It was suggested that Monastrell had a roughness and excessiveness that made it suitable only for mass production. The reason: its high color, intense fruitiness, voluminous body and high alcohol content, which can reach up to 17%. Too much for a time full of red wines and fine wines. Nor did it matter much, since Monastrell was valued in large quantities, in high demand, and well paid, particularly in France and Germany. A good deal for winemakers, mainly from Murcia, Alicante, Almansa or Valencia and to a lesser extent from other growing regions such as Catalonia and Aragon.
What was neither said nor known is that this unstoppable mass fate was the result of viticultural practices that sought the very qualities that are in high demand. It wasn’t the grapes, it was the market. However, there were strong reasons to produce excellent wines in these wine-growing regions: small vineyards where centuries-old Monastrell vines were grown without grafting; privileged locations where the warm Mediterranean climate moderated its influence and slowed ripening; Variety of soils: sandy, stony, calcareous… But the mass image it conveyed made high-quality production unprofitable.
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It took some courageous and meticulous winemakers to decide to produce red wines where Monastrell gave his best and this grape variety was definitely among the best in the world. I’m talking about Agapito Rico, José María Vicente, Ramón Castaño or Felipe Gutiérrez de la Vega with his majestic Fondillon Recóndita Armonía, authenticity transformed into art. And those who followed, like Pepe Mendoza, Cerdán, Rafael Cambra or Miguel Velázquez.
And Monastrell, the fifth most planted red grape in Spain after Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Bobal and Garnacha Tintorera, has suffered a dramatic loss of vineyards – from nearly 106,000 hectares in 1990 to about 36,000 when it was even more treated as a growing area the quantity and alcohol content, without taking into account its very personal and powerful organoleptic qualities. But when the vineyard is given what it asks for, and it is very little, and the ripe grape is full of sugar, well supplied with acids, overflowing with polyphenols, with limited production, then it shows its greatness and its wines exceed all standards his strong personality and character, summed up in two words: power and elegance. There is only one problem at Monastrell: viticulture. Of course, we must avoid the risks and excesses of a grape prone to overripeness and sweet tones (carob) that compromise its delicacy. But when the work is appropriate and the cultivation is focused on quality, the fruit transforms into a red wine with tellura aromas, where the fruit is illuminated by the resonance of the terroir. Without forgetting that Monastrell is capable of surviving prolonged periods of drought, a fact that must be taken into account. These six wines are clear proof of that.
CUVÉE SCHLOSSHAUS N 2019
An excellent example of Monastrell’s power and subtlety. In this case it comes from a small plot of land in Las Gravas, 720 meters above sea level, with sandy clay soils covered with stones. Fermentation takes place with whole grapes, without destemming, in underground presses. After malolactic maturation in barrels, it matures for 19 months in foudres of different sizes. Aromatic display of ripe black and red fruits (fig, wild blackberry), wild Mediterranean herbs, notes of spices, cocoa and roasted coffee on a smoky background of excellent wood. Tasty, concentrated but graceful, it highlights its strong personality and character that melts in the mouth with a hedonistic rhythm.
· Save: Casa Castillo, Jumilla (Murcia)
·Phone: 968 781 691
·Network: casacastillo.es
·DO: Jumilla
·Guy: Crianza red, 14.5%
·Tribes: monastic
·Price: 74.90 euros
·Punctuation: 9.5+/10
LA CALERA DEL ESCARAMUJO 2021
The majesty of the detached Monastrell could not have a better ambassador. The Cerdán family achieves this little gem thanks to their ungrafted Monastrell grapes, planted in 1942 in La Muela, 960 meters high. It is a small plot of 1.67 hectares. The fruit, fermented with the skins and macerated for 63 days, matures for 14 months in used 600 liter barrels. Concentrated, complex aroma of great finesse, with notes of compote, the subtle presence of the wood that gives it, integrated into the harmonious combination of fruity scents, citrus notes, spicy and balsamic notes. Tasty, fresh and lively, with a morbid note and a persistent finish.
· Save: Cerrón Winery, Fuente-Álamo (Albacete)
·Phone: 967 543 034
·Network: bodegacerron.com
·DO: Jumilla
·Guy: Crianza red, 14.5%
·Tribes: Monastrell and some whitewash
·Price: 70 euros
·Punctuation: 9.5/10
CISCA HOUSE 2017
Casa Cisca is the jewel of Castaño. Its alcohol content of 15.5% not only doesn’t bother you, but also gives strength and nerve to a wine with a powerful impression. It comes from very old Monastrell strains grown at 750 meters above sea level. Production is based on a strict selection of grapes and grains and begins with a 15-day maceration with the skins. It is then aged for 16 months in new French and American oak barrels. With a deep aroma that combines black fruits in liqueur with notes of balsamic herbs, roasted coffee and the delicate lacquer of flowers and spices. Concentrated and fresh, it achieves the miracle of combining Mediterranean sensuality and continental elegance.
· Save: Chestnut, Yecla (Murcia)
·Phone: 968 791 115
·Network: bodegascastano.com
·DO: Yecla
·Guy: Crianza red, 15.5%
·Tribes: monastic
·Price: 35.60 euros
·Punctuation: 9.4+/10
PEPE MENDOZA THE POISON 2020
Another genius of Pepe Mendoza with its old Monastrell vines planted in sandy loam soil and edges that give freshness to the variety. It is an evolution of his previous farmhouse, made according to the same oenological principles: fermentation of whole bunches and part of the stems in small vats and aging for 12 months in 500 liter French Allier oak barrels. Sensual aromatic landscape of abundant ripe fruits (figs, wild blackberries) seasoned with floral notes and balsamic herbs, in a sophisticated atmosphere of cedar wood, spices and toast. Tasty, lively, his personality and character are summed up in sensuality and nobility.
· Save: Agriculture, Lliber (Alicante)
·Phone: 688 344 767
·Network: casaagricola.es
·DO: Alicante
·Guy: Crianza red, 14%
·Tribes: monastic
·Price: 27 euros
·Punctuation: 9.4/10
RAFAEL CAMBRA UNO 2021
On the limestone slopes and sandy loam structure of Fontanars dels Alforins, Rafael Cambra cultivates a vineyard with almost 60-year-old, ungrafted vines. A little gem treated with delicacy and respect: alcoholic fermentation takes place in open tanks with gentle pumping over and a three-week maceration. After malolactic aging in used oak barrels, it is lightly aged for 10 months in new and used French oak. Suggestive aroma of ripe black and red fruits enriched with perfumed floral notes, Mediterranean bush herbs, spices, cocoa, toasted notes and a smoky base of excellent wood. Tasty, full and fresh, with an aftertaste of candied fruit.
· Save: Rafael Cambra, Fontanars dels Alforins (Valencia)
·Phone: 626 309 327
·Network: rafaelcambra.es
·DO: Valencia
·Guy: Crianza red, 14%
·Tribes: monastic
·Price: 15 euro
·Punctuation: 9.2+/10
THE DOLOMITES MURDERERS 2021
A homage to tradition and history. Part of an old Monastrell vineyard at 700 meters above sea level with very stony soils at the foot of the Dolomite Mountain. Both malolactic fermentation and aging are carried out in the old 18th century tanks where the monks made the wines. Maturation takes place for 10 months in old concrete and clay amphorae. Complex aroma of small red and black fruits (picotta, currant, blackberry and raspberry), subtle notes of aromatic herbs and delicate spices. In the mouth it is juicy, with a sweet and enveloping taste, well balanced, with sufficient acidity and a soft and persistent palate. .
· Save: Casa Los Frailes, Fontanars dels Alforins (Valencia)
·Phone: 962 222 220
·Network: bodegaslosfrailes.com
·DO: has not
·Guy: Crianza red, 14.5%
·Tribes: monastic
·Price: 16 euros
·Punctuation: 9.2/10