Produce real milk or egg proteins without the use of animals: Thanks to precision fermentation, startups want to reproduce the texture, taste and nutritional value of cheese or omelettes without the carbon footprint of farm animals.
In the Standing Ovation laboratories in Paris, the development of the product begins in a dark room: genes from the cow capable of producing casein must be inserted into a microorganism (yeast, fungus, bacteria), the main protein in milk.
These microorganisms then “grow” in flasks before being transferred to fermenters, where they multiply mixed with water, salt, nitrogen and sugar. The company can produce one liter in 24 hours from a 30-milliliter bottle.
Filtered, centrifuged and freed from the original genetically modified microorganisms, a white powder is created, which the start-up plans to deliver to manufacturers in 25-kilogram bags. It’s up to them to convert it into the equivalent of Camembert, crottin, cheese spread or ice cream to restore its firmness, chewiness or melty texture.
The products are closer to their counterparts of animal origin than vegan substitutes made, for example, from coconut oil or cashews, assures Romain Chayot, co-founder of Standing Ovation.
“In the end, the protein is the same as what comes out of the cow’s udder,” he says.
Not a miracle solution for those with milk protein allergies, but potentially good news for people who cannot tolerate lactose, the sugar produced in milk.
Standing Ovation can also be based on the DNA of a goat, a sheep, a buffalo or, if the wish came, even a whale.
Less emissions
Turning wheat into bread, grapes into wine: fermentation is a proven method in food for centuries.
Recently, however, techniques have been added to train microorganisms to produce specific proteins or enzymes.
The main uses: the reproduction of milk proteins (casein and whey), egg or substances such as heme, used by producers of plant-based burgers to approximate red meat.
Unlike cell-cultured meat, precision fermentation does not use animal cells.
According to the Good Food Institute (GFI), an American organization that promotes alternatives to meat, the sector has experienced a resurgence since 2020, attracting $938 million in investments in 2021 and $382 million in 2022.
Lyon start-up Bon Vivant, which also makes milk proteins, announced on Thursday that it had raised another 15 million euros for expansion.
In the USA (Perfect Day, Every), in Germany (Formo) and in Israel (ReMilk) other companies are pushing into this niche. GFI identified 62 worldwide at the end of 2022.
Ice creams made from Perfect Day’s whey protein have been sold in the United States since 2020.
In this country, Standing Ovation hopes to market its powder from 2024, indicates Romain Chayot.
The approval process in the European Union, which is reserved for “Novel Foods”, is longer. Standing Ovation is aiming for 2025 or 2026.
The start-up currently produces in a fermenter – a steel tank – of 10 m3, but would like to switch to a 200 m3 fermenter at some point. She hopes that products made from her powder will be priced the same as their animal counterparts.
Manufacturers promote these innovations.
In 2022, Standing Ovation partnered with Bel, the maker of Kiri and Boursin, which already sells a range of plant-based vegan cheeses.
Nestlé and Unilever are also conducting experiments.
Products made from precision fermentation “produce a fraction of the emissions from animal agriculture,” as is regularly highlighted for methane from ruminant burps, “and use less water,” notes Stella Child, who leads research at the Good Food Institute to promote the area in Europe.
“Just as governments have supported the development of renewable energy, they should support the fermentation sector to grow” to promote more sustainable food, she argues.