When a food critic comes to a city that prides itself on its food scene, restaurants and their followers take notice. But rarely does a traditional reviewer cause as much excitement as Atlanta did with the recent visit of Keith Lee, a food fanatic with a massive army of 14 million followers on TikTok.
Mr. Lee, known for his ability to revitalize a small business with its legions of fans, was often frustrated by what he considered strange rules at various restaurants.
“Butter is a dollar? At a breakfast spot?” he asked in a video on his first day in Atlanta, eating takeout in his car. Mr. Lee, who lives in Las Vegas, primarily reviews independent mom-and-pop restaurants, many of them black-owned. He often orders takeout and has his family pick it up so he isn’t treated as a star influencer.
Mr. Lee has made videos from Detroit, Chicago and Los Angeles, but the response in Atlanta has been remarkable. For many of his followers there, his criticism appears to have opened an outlet for their long-held grievances about some of the city’s restaurants.
Complaints include surcharges for items like hot sauce or syrup and a lack of options for reservations or pickup. Some complaints involve rules that are also common in many other cities: for example, the requirement that an entire party must be present to be seated.
But something about Mr. Lee’s videos struck a chord with some guests in Atlanta, who took to social media to demand change. “I hope this is a wake-up call for some of these restaurants,” one Atlanta TikTok user commented. “The additional ‘rules’ are getting crazier and crazier.”
Even rapper Cardi B weighed in, saying on Instagram Live on Monday that she could “hardly order from restaurants in Atlanta” unless she revealed her name. Of course, restaurants have long given special treatment to celebrities and even some influencers, but Mr. Lee has made treating all diners equally a core part of his message. “I’m just Keith,” he said in a video. “Aside from social media, I’m a normal person.”
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution wrote this week that the city is “Keith Lee’d,” noting that its tour of the city’s dining scene coincided with another seismic culinary event: the announcement of the first Michelin-starred restaurants in Atlanta.
Some restaurateurs saw real results, for better or worse, after Mr. Lee’s visits. A restaurant sold out for the first time in its history after rave reviews and had to extend its opening hours. At another restaurant where Mr. Lee had a frustrating experience, the inbox quickly filled with hate and threats.
These are the two sides of what some call the Keith Lee effect.
Mr. Lee did not respond to messages left this week. A former professional mixed martial arts fighter, he said he started using TikTok to ease his fear of public speaking. In 2021, he began posting restaurant reviews on the platform.
His report quickly found a large audience who responded to his willingness to try restaurants off the beaten path. Mr. Lee posts reviews from home or his car, often trying locations suggested by viewers or restaurant employees. He prided himself on his neutrality, he said, never accepting special treatment and sometimes tipping thousands of dollars. This year, he collaborated with influencer MrBeast, who has more than 88 million followers on TikTok, to support struggling restaurants.
This wide reach can be a blessing for entrepreneurs, but it can also trigger heated debates.
The Real Milk and Honey, a brunch spot in College Park, Georgia, took the brunt of audience criticism last week. Mr Lee expressed frustration with the restaurant’s complicated ordering process and offer to seat him early due to his celebrity status, which he declined.
After Mr. Lee posted his video, Shauna Neely, a spokeswoman for Real Milk and Honey, said the restaurant had received cruel and hateful messages on social media.
“Brunch is everywhere, but in Atlanta it’s huge,” Ms. Neely said. “We have to follow these house rules because we are very busy.”
But she added: “The only negative thing is the comments.” The attention has attracted more social media followers and patrons, she said. The restaurant also said on Instagram that the dining rules posted there were outdated and have since been updated to reflect the changes.
Comments on social media quickly spiraled out of control when another restaurant with a similar name, Milk and Honey, was confused with the restaurant Mr Lee had been talking about. According to a screenshot posted by Mr. Lee on TikTok, the owner of this restaurant said that employees had received death threats.
Mr Lee urged his viewers to refrain from such behavior. “In my opinion that is definitely not OK,” he said.
On the other side of the Keith Lee Effect are restaurants like the Dining Experience in Fairburn, Georgia, where a positive review has energized the restaurant.
“We sold out on Saturday and Sunday,” said Kyesha Johnson, the owner. “This is the first time this has happened.”
In closing videos, Mr. Lee responded to the uproar over his visit, which coincided with a family trip, saying he would be reluctant to tour other cities if it would only cause controversy. He condemned the harassment of restaurants and said there was “so much positive in Atlanta.”
He said the goal of his video reviews is to “give back to the community” and help business owners. “If you want me to come, please understand that I will be honest.”