The BR 03-94, a benchmark for reliable product and striking style
The famous family of tool watches inspired by cockpit instruments and aviation in general, the Bell & Ross BR 03, intended for both working professionals and civilians, launched a chronograph in 2006. Bell & Ross was born in 1992 in the form of a university project. Two friends, Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, began a worthwhile watchmaking adventure with the idea of creating instrument watches inspired by the military world. First, they entered into a partnership with the German company Sinn Spezialuhren, known for its utility watches. The collaboration between Bell & Ross and Sinn has led to the development of several notable military-inspired functional watches, such as the Space 1 chronograph, the Type Démineur watch for the French civil security or the Hydro Challenger Professional, which can reach a depth of 11,000 meters waterproof. However, these were newly designed Sinn watches with design input from Belamich and Rosillo. Things began to change for Bell & Ross when the owners of Chanel saw the brand’s potential and took a stake in the company in 1998 – in 2000 the company grew larger.
True to the square
As a result, Bell & Ross ended its collaboration with Sinn in 2002 and started independent production within the G&F Châtelain factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which is owned by Chanel. Three years later, in 2005, Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo presented a watch that made them famous: the BR 01 Instrument with a unique and daring design, inspired by instruments in aircraft cockpits. The 46 mm square BR 01 has become one of Bell & Ross’ most recognizable and iconic models and represents the identity and philosophy of a brand that aims to produce professional and functional watches. The success and popularity of the BR 01 contributed to Bell & Ross’ reputation as experts in aviation-inspired watches. Furthermore, the creation exerted a significant influence on overall watch design and laid the foundation for many future BRs, including the BR 03 Chrono.
Introduced by Bell & Ross in 2006, the BR 03 collection features a smaller but still perfectly square case measuring 42mm on a side. It quickly integrated the BR 03-94 chronographs and started with two emblematic watches in steel and black PVD-treated steel, both with black dials and white displays. These first two BR 03 chronographs continued to embody the Bell & Ross watch concept as an instrument and not just a fashion accessory. They illustrated the principle according to which a watch must be a functional, very precise and perfectly legible tool. The distinctive indices and large numbers, the clear and clear dials – despite the small seconds at 3 o’clock, the 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and the date window between 4 and 5 o’clock – as well as the luminous display coating improve readability: you can Recognize the time at a glance.
BR 03-94 Chronograph © Bell & Ross
The BR 03 series was launched by Bell & Ross in 2006 and features a smaller but still perfectly square 42mm case. The BR 03-94 chronograph line soon became part of the offering with two emblematic stainless steel watches: one with black PVD coating and both with black dials and white elements. These first two BR 03 chronographs continued the concept of the Bell & Ross watch as an instrument and not just a fashion accessory. They embodied the principle that a watch should be a functional tool that ensures precise timekeeping and readability. The distinctive hour markers and large numerals, the clean and clear dials – despite the small seconds display at 3 o’clock, the 30-minute chronograph counter at 9 o’clock and a date display between 4 and 5 o’clock – are part of the luminous coating improves legibility and makes it easier to read the time at a glance.
The flight
The distinctive screws at the four corners of the square case are distinctive elements of the design and remain features that are not only decorative but also functional, contributing to the overall robustness of the chronographs. Thanks to the use of ceramics in the aerospace and medical industries, they eventually gained popularity among watchmakers due to their exceptional properties such as lightness, resistance to high temperatures, acid exposure, corrosion and erosion, as well as biobalance and water resistance. Bell & Ross is one of the companies that have recognized the potential of ceramics and developed a special manufacturing process to improve their properties. It is therefore not surprising that the Bell & Ross cases, initially made of PVD-treated steel, have been replaced by ceramic cases, particularly on the BR 03 Chrono. Since its launch in 2015, the BR 03-94 Black Matte chronograph, powered by the BR-CAL.301 automatic movement (base ETA 2894-2) in a 42mm square matte black ceramic case, achieves a harmonious fusion of form and Function: It is a timekeeping instrument and an object of admiration that captures the spirit of discovery and adventure.
The Bell & Ross BR 03 chronographs feature a bold design that sets them apart from the rest. The square shape, inspired by on-board instruments, creates a great effect on the wrist. Attention to detail, color harmony and luminous materials ensure optimal readability in all situations.
BR 03-94 Chronograph © Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph
HOUSING: steel or black ceramic, waterproof to 100 m
DIMENSIONS : 42x42mm
MOVEMENT: mechanical automatic winding, caliber BR-CAL.301, 46 hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date
CHOOSE: Available black or blue dial
BRACELET: Rubber or synthetic canvas, pin buckle
INTRODUCTION YEAR: 2006
This year, GMT Magazine and WorldTempus began the ambitious project of collecting the chronograph since 2000 in “The Millennium Watch Book – Chronographs”, a large and beautiful, beautifully illustrated book. This article is an excerpt. The Millennium Watch Book – Chronographs is available here in French and English.