In an episode of the American television series Seinfeld, the protagonist Jerry is having breakfast with his friends Elaine and George and is wearing a fluffy and unusual wool sweater, so George asks his friend where he found it. Jerry explains that it’s one of those finds that are sometimes made at the bottom of the closet, and George replies, “I really think the bottom of closets should stay there.” The sweater doesn’t actually seem to be of great quality , nothing like other wool sweaters that have become famous, such as the cardigan that Dude wears in The Big Lebowski or the soft sweater that Harry wears in one of the scenes of Harry and Sally .
In one way or another they all seem to be evidence of a time when wool sweaters were better made and lasted longer than they are today. This is not about old-fashionedness, but about how the clothing sector has evolved in recent decades, with a major impact not only on the ability to protect yourself from the cold, but also on the environment.
The debate about clothing lasting much less than it used to is certainly not new, but it has recently become relevant again, particularly in the United States following the publication of a post on X (formerly Twitter) and a subsequent article in Atlantic Who I have looked into the topic in detail. Comedian Ellory Smith took two photos and compared the iconic white wool sweater worn by Billy Crystal (who played Harry in the 1989 film) to a similar sweater worn by actor Ben Schwartz, in essentially the same pose with jeans and white sneakers .
Regardless of the method of production – crystal is more lush, black is narrower – there is a certain difference in the thickness and therefore in the quality of the wool. Based on this comparison, Smith wrote on September 20, “The quality of sweaters has deteriorated so much over the last twenty years that a discussion on the subject is absolutely necessary.” Since then, everyone has noticed the post.
The quality of sweaters has declined so much over the last twenty years that I really think a national discussion is needed https://t.co/sbjNYp4KSy
– ellory smith (@ellorysmith) September 20, 2023
The comparison continued with the publication of the article in the Atlantic, which points out that despite some intentional differences between the two sweaters, mostly related to choice of style and design, it is clear that the sweater worn by Smith is from seems lower quality and cheaper, although it’s a pretty impressive sweater by today’s standards. According to the magazine, it is actually manufactured by Polo Ralph Lauren and sold at a price of around 400 dollars, an edition that is not for everyone and that in any case offers those who decide to buy it the guarantee of it to be able to use Store the sweater for a long time before it starts to deteriorate.
But in general, those who buy a sweater from multinational clothing companies today know that it will not last long: it will lose its shape, some finishes will quickly fail, and spots will form on the fabric. Depending on the case, the sweater is too warm or not enough to protect you from the cold and does not stay soft for long.
– Also listen: There are no longer the sweaters from before It takes a science
The most obvious cause, at least for those who buy a sweater, is the raw material from which these products are made. Previously, only “natural” wool fibers were used for their production, obtained from the shearing of sheep, goats, alpacas and other animals (there is no clear definition of what is natural: in nature there are both sheep and the Elements). to produce plastic). If necessary, they were mixed with other natural fibers, but of plant origin, such as cotton or linen.
The development and introduction of synthetic fibers around the middle of the 20th century changed things: they were cheaper than those used until then and easier to process, especially in industrial processes. Polyester and acrylic fibers in particular, which are still among the most commonly used fibers in clothing, became widespread. These materials could be processed for industrial production and, to a certain extent, promised to simplify our lives: items of clothing could almost always be washed in the washing machine, including sweaters, because the fibers withstood mechanical stress better. However, at the same time, it has been found that they are less durable over time and do not always coexist well with natural fibers, contributing to their deterioration.
A mix of natural and synthetic fibers also tends to be less insulating and therefore less warm when worn. Wool fibers are hygroscopic and hydrophobic, meaning they draw moisture inwards and keep the surface dry. For this reason, a pure wool sweater can absorb a lot of moisture from circulating air before its surface feels damp. It is a property that has been known for a long time and has made wool clothing very popular in latitudes where it is very cold and there are particularly wet periods of the year.
Synthetic fibers attempt to mimic this ability of wool, but have a less complex and, above all, less durable structure and therefore tend to be less efficient not only at heat retention but also at breathability. In recent decades the situation has improved, for example with the introduction of new “technical fabrics” and special membranes that are often used in hiking and mountaineering. The clothing for these activities is almost always made of synthetic fibers and is highly valued by mountaineers because it takes up little space, is lightweight and can be cleaned and dried quickly. However, they have a limited lifespan and must be replaced at a certain frequency.
Cashmere-producing goats (Finnbarr Webster/Getty Images)
In addition to practical reasons, synthetic fibers are very popular in the clothing market because they are cheaper than natural fibers, especially wool fibers. A kilogram of acrylic fiber costs less than two dollars, while a kilogram of raw wool costs $4 and can reach $10-15 per kilo for more valuable wool such as cashmere. The large multinational clothing companies have accustomed us to offering garments at relatively low prices, so the production of sweaters made entirely of wool and perhaps partly handcrafted is not sustainable, except in certain cases.
Furthermore, price is not always an indicator of quality in a sector where raw materials are just one of the many variables that contribute to the creation of value in a product. In fact, other factors such as the brand, marketing initiatives and current fashion also have an influence. The biggest fashion brands often feature products made from natural and synthetic fibers in their seasonal catalogs, although they mainly emphasize the presence of the former. The Atlantic article gives the example of a “wool cardigan” that Gucci sells for $3,200 and which, if you read the label, is made of 50 percent polyamide, a synthetic fiber.
The success of the so-called “fast fashion” brands, i.e. clothing companies that produce and sell cheap and fashionable items of clothing while constantly offering new ones, has exacerbated the phenomenon and triggered a vicious circle. In order to sell at very low prices, these companies rely on cheap and unskilled labor who assemble materials without knowing their properties, unlike the people who used to work in tailor shops. The savings also affect raw materials, as a growing proportion of synthetic fibers are used, which do not require skilled workers to process. The result is that production costs are greatly reduced, but at the expense of the durability of the garments and the way they are made.
The problem is particularly acute in the processing of knitted fabrics, which requires highly specialized workers capable of, for example, creating the details and intricate embellishments of a sweater, such as the one in “Harry and Sally.” In order to reduce costs and speed up production processes, this labor is eliminated and the characteristics of the garments are simplified so that they can be manufactured more easily and quickly by machine. Sweaters become more boring, like Smith’s, and at the same time the specialization that workers have acquired from generation to generation is lost.
In this context, a company that wanted to enter the market in another way would have difficulties not only because it would have to offer its products at higher prices, but also because it would not find enough skilled workers to work on its creations. It would also be difficult to find the wool to use at sustainable prices and to ensure a supply without synthetic fibers. Source controls are often difficult, as is monitoring the supply chain, which often takes place across multiple continents and the majority of clothing is manufactured in Asia.
Low prices, high supply sales and a certain purchasing pressure have led to significant growth in the textile industry in recent decades. It is estimated that per capita production of textile fibers almost doubled between 1995 and 2018, and approximately 60 million tons of clothing products are purchased each year. The industry produces nearly twice as many garments as it did in 2000, with most production occurring in China and other middle-income countries such as Turkey, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Together with direct employment and related industries, the industry employs around 300 million people.
The quantities are enormous and without synthetic fibers it would probably not be possible to produce such a large amount of clothing in a continuous cycle. At the same time, the use of longer-lasting fibers could help make the industry more sustainable, provided that some market logics and a demand long accustomed to “fast fashion” change.
The effects of this dynamic on the environment have also been studied for a long time, as synthetic fibers decompose during washing and release microplastics into the water, which in turn ends up in the environment. Research is still ongoing, but evidence has been found of the role of long washing cycles at high temperatures in the washing machine, leading to the production of large quantities of plastic microfibers from synthetic materials. Some studies have also found that some ingredients in powder detergents tend to cause greater wear and tear on fabrics, as do the drums of top-loading washing machines, possibly due to the greater friction of the clothing as it comes into contact with the drum hinge to close.
However, as in many other areas, in recent years people’s attention and sensitivity to the sustainability of their purchases and the impact of certain lifestyles on the environment has increased. Some large companies have taken up these concerns and are trying to improve things and improve their image in the minds of their customers. The initiatives concern greater recycling of synthetic materials, stronger controls on the production chain of natural fibers and a general commitment to reducing plastic production. There has also been a growing interest in used and vintage clothing among a section of the population, although it is no coincidence that pure wool garments such as When When When Harry Met Sally are among the most sought after and often show little sign of aging.