In many Christmas lunches and dinners it is one of the star products, one of the most common and, according to the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food, 9 out of 10 Spaniards consume it at home. However, given the wide offer on the market (brands, prices, etc.), it is not easy to know which Iberian ham to choose. To buy a quality Iberian ham, in addition to a minimum budget, you also need to know basic concepts and some basic labeling terms. Iberian ham, yes, but which one? 100% or 50% Iberian? What is the difference between shoulder and ham? What does the color of the seal mean? Four experts give keys to clarifying doubts.
Differences between shoulder ham and ham
The shoulder and the ham are different pieces since the first is the front extremities and the second is the hind extremities and therefore “each has its particularities, both morphological and organoleptic characteristics,” explains Rafael Guerrero, commercial director of COVAP (Pedroches Valley Livestock Cooperative ). Guerrero points out that, for example, the acorn-fed Iberian shoulder “has a more intense flavor, it is more like an explosion of flavors in the mouth with many nuances of nuts thanks to the acorn, and that makes it a lot of fans of the strong taste. . Its weight is about 5 kilos, so the aging process in the wine cellar is shorter, about 18 months.”
Guerrero, for his part, says that acorn-fed ham “has a more balanced, soft and harmonious taste, especially because it requires the constant exercise that the 100% Iberian pig undergoes in search of the pig as it moves freely through the pasture .” best acorns rich in oleic acid, herbs and grasses. We have to take into account that they walk about 10 kilometers a day and that is reflected in their muscles.”
Key to read the label
To know what type of shoulder or Iberian ham we are dealing with and to decide which product we want, all experts agree that it is important to interpret the color code that corresponds to the quality of these products the current Iberian quality characterizes standard. The seal – inviolable, meaning it cannot be altered and awarded by an external company controlled by the ministry – can be black, red, green and white; although only the first two correspond to the category of acorn. This label certifies the breed and nutrition of the pig, the two most important parameters to take into account when purchasing.
More information
The black seal certifies that it is a 100% Iberian acorn-fed product. “It is the highest quality,” says José Gómez, sixth generation of Joselito. “It was naturally pasture-fed and then naturally aged in drying rooms and cellars,” he says. Rafael Guerrero of COVAP adds that these are the only ones that can be called “Pata Negra” and that “we will never go wrong” by choosing this designation, although it must be made clear that they are the most expensive trades on the market. The shoulder and hams with a black seal come from 100% Iberian breeds, i.e. pasture-raised animals. In addition, according to María Castro, communications director of Cinco Jotas, these pigs have only lived in freedom and free-range farming not only has “less impact on the environment”, but also meat with “greater protein richness” since “muscles are created” during exercise. . very rich in iron.” “Camping gives you a quality that a sedentary animal doesn’t have,” says the biologist. “More than Iberian or not, what is important is the pig breeding system, what they call management. The quality of field cultivation will always be superior to that of an intensively farmed pig,” concludes Maxi Portes, soul of Vitaminajota, which delivers to restaurants and private individuals through its online store.
The red seal also refers to an animal whose diet is acorn-fed, but in this case the breed will be 75% or 50% Iberian. “Under no circumstances would we speak of a 100% Iberian pig,” explains Rafa Guerrero of COVAP. María Castro of Cinco Jotas indicates that the majority of animals available on the market are 50%, meaning that the mother is “usually” 100% Iberian, while the father is white.
The other two seals, green and white, correspond to non-acorn products, such as field bait – marked with the color green, “animals that spend time outdoors at some point in their lives,” he points out. Castro – and bait – identified by a white label and “always raised in barns and fed feed” –.
Among the four varieties, biologist María Castro is convinced that “the highest quality will always come from 100% Iberian acorns, due to fat infiltration.” “It penetrates between the muscle bundles and into the cell itself. You have a lean bite because you are not chewing fat, what is there is subverted very finely and homogeneously and on an acorn diet most fats are unsaturated and melt in your mouth. You hardly have to chew it,” he says. At intersections, “the strip is wider and the ham is thicker,” he compares.
Appearance is important
After taking a close look at the label and deciding what type of ham or shoulder of ham you want, the experts surveyed agree that the most important thing is to look at the piece. “We must ensure that the piece is stylized and elongated, typical of the pure Iberian race. A shorter and rounder ham would not be typical for this breed,” advises Rafael Guerrero. María Castro sees the same thing, adding that the lower leg – the ankle – “must be very narrow and the hoof must be worn because that means the animal is free.”
Guerrero also invites us to color analysis. The lean part should be “ochre brown” without being too dark. The same applies to the external fat, which should be yellowish, the lighter the better, almost white. This would reflect a significant intake of acorns and also grass, which is very important for the supply of vitamins and antioxidants.” Furthermore, he explains: “The smoother the external surface, the greater the likelihood of good conformation of the piece.”
Maxi Portes of Vitamina Jota adds that although the length and thinness of the leg are the most common signs, “the secret really lies in the fat.” “The glans is converted into oleic acid, which makes the fat wrinkle, which is why they say that Pig is an olive tree with legs,” adds Maxi Portes from Vitamina Jota. Portes adds: “The fat of an Iberian is never hard or dry, it is liquid and melts to the touch.” If you press the bacon part of the ham with your finger, it will sink and then spring back. “That’s a good ham.”
No wipes to preserve it
María Castro assures that if you buy the ready-cut product instead of the whole piece, “it does not lose quality”, but what is “very important” when consuming it is “the temperature of consumption”. “A cold ham loses a lot,” he emphasizes and recommends letting it cool down beforehand if we store it in the refrigerator. As for the maximum period of consumption, Castro indicates that it is “a month” and that the ideal is to “consume it little by little”. “For two people, if they don’t use a lot, a pallet is best because it’s a smaller piece,” he says.
Also important is the way to preserve it after opening and, contrary to what is often done, Castro does not recommend at all to cover the already cut area directly above with a kitchen towel, as this is also unhygienic. “It is best to cut it and consume it. If you want to continue cutting and enjoying the piece, you must cover the piece with the white fat of the ham at the point where it was cut and wrap it well with kitchen foil,” explains José Gómez of Joselito, to which Rafael Guerrero adds that , then yes, once it’s wrapped with the foil, “it should be covered with a cloth to protect it from light.” As for the question of whether to cut it at home or take it to a specialist and vacuum pack it, is the expert believes that “vacuum cutting is best” when you don’t have time or don’t know how to cut it. Above all, says José Gómez of Cinco Jotas, “it is very important to have a trustworthy butcher who can choose the piece.”
You can follow EL PAÍS Gastro on Instagram and X.