The dizzying pyramids of Tikal are Guatemala's most famous tourist attraction. The reason why many are encouraged to travel to the Petén department, a vast, sparsely populated and jungle-covered region in the north of the country that, even today, remains a challenge for anyone who wants to feel like a real traveler. Almost isolated from the rest of Guatemala, Petén is the true cradle of the Mayan civilization. Its big attraction is the mysterious cities hidden in the jungle, with its very high pyramids towering above the dense vegetation, but it is also a place to discover another world, rest by quiet lakes where you can… Live at a different pace, relax, dive into a cenote from a zipline, spot exotic animals and birds, or venture along trails where you rarely see anyone.
The jewel is undoubtedly Tikal with its surprising Mayan temples, but Petén offers much more. More remote locations like El Mirador and Piedras Negras require days of planning and just as many days of trekking through the jungle. And going further, the Maya Biosphere Reserve covers almost the entire northern third of Petén and, together with the border reserves of Mexico and Belize, forms a plurinational park of more than 30,000 square kilometers.
More information
Guatemala is the Mayan world in an almost pure state, especially the department of Petén, whose main centers (Tikal and El Mirador) have always had more contact with neighboring Belize and Mexico than with their neighbors to the south. Even with the arrival of the Spaniards not much changed. In the middle of an impenetrable jungle, the Itza, inhabitants of the island of Flores located in Lake Petén Itzá and famous for their savagery, kept the conquerors at bay until 1697, about 150 years after the conquest of the rest of the country.
If you have to choose just one Mayan city in Guatemala, it is undoubtedly Tikal. But this enclave is just the beginning. To see all the sights in this part of the country would require much more time than is normally available. In addition, there is not only ancient history: the Mayan culture and traditions are still alive in the cities of Petén, the dense jungle is home to many special plants and animals, and the area of Lake Petén-Itzá offers travelers the opportunity to easily to enjoy the peace and quiet in quiet places such as the island of Flores or the area of El Remate. To the south, the hills, valleys and lagoons of Sayaxché and Petexbatún are perfect for peaceful river tours and trips to ruins that few tourists visit.
Notice
The best travel recommendations, in your inbox every week
RECEIVE THEM
The Petén region, largely protected by incredible national parks, is very vast. You can explore part of it by 4×4, but you'll have to continue on foot, horseback or helicopter if you want to reach the less visited corners.
Tikal, the essentials
It is the jewel of the Classic Mayan heritage, a collection of temples rising spectacularly from the jungle, shrouded in the aura of mystery that still surrounds everything related to this civilization. Fascinating discoveries continue to be made in Guatemala's most impressive ruins. These huge temples tell us that in other times, for centuries, it was a powerful and feared capital. Like so many Mayan cities, the city was burned and abandoned and until relatively recently was covered by jungle: beginning in 1956, excavations uncovered hundreds of buildings, ball courts, temples and houses.
The Great Square at the Mayan site of Tikal (Guatemala), an archaeological site that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Byron Obed Sagastume Bran (Getty Images)
Unlike other tourist places, Tikal is just as magical as what you see in the photos, or even more. It is true that we will not be alone as there are many visitors, but the ruins are so large that it is easy to sneak away and find corners where it feels like no one else is there. There is no shortage of moss-covered steps, ancient glyphs that tell stories of conquests and kings, and astronomical constructions that point to the stars. Although it is a challenge to get here, it is very worth it.
One of the most unforgettable experiences is watching the sunrise here. Even the most experienced travelers agree that there is little better than sitting in Temple IV of Tikal, surrounded by fog, listening to the roar of howler monkeys as the light of the new day breaks through the clouds, and four more along the way Temple to see jungle. There is silence among the visitors and a shared feeling that what they see is something spiritual. And if you can't see the sunrise (clouds prevent it 80% of the time), the sunset can be just as exciting: it's possible to stay after six in the afternoon, take photos until after the golden hour and then leave amid the dark shadows of the At evening. It is a good time to be in the park as there are far fewer people and at dusk there is a greater chance of seeing animals and birds, which appear when most park visitors have left the park.
Uaxactún, in the depths of the jungle
Wrapped in the deep jungle, the mysterious Uaxactún allows us a picture of the complex and majestic Mayan world that is more solid and complete than if we had only visited Tikal. Getting there isn't easy and you have to get a special permit in Tikal before setting off, but for archeology lovers it's something very special. You can reach the town of the same name in an hour via a dirt road full of potholes. Once there you have to choose between the groups of ruins you can visit, as there are several numbered from A to E. They are isolated and beautiful ruins, with solemn, moss-covered buildings. It takes several hours to fully explore the entire site. Therefore, plan enough time.
One of the Mayan temples at the Uaxactún site (Guatemala). Alamy Stock Photo
Given Tikal's proximity, some may think that it was an allied city, but in reality they were rivals and at some point Uaxactún was defeated by the ruler of Tikal, Siyaj K'ak'. Despite a brief subsequent resurgence, as is the case with so many Maya cities, Uaxactún was abandoned around the year 900.
Yaxhá, Topoxté, El Naranjo and Nakum
Where Tikal ends, many fascinating routes begin, especially for fans of bygone times and the Mayan world. Petén is a vast region where there are dozens of known sites and many more that remain unexcavated. Some even exceed Tikal in size, but are very remote. In the Mayan world everything is a question of place. If reaching a ruin requires a five-day journey through the jungle or a helicopter ride, it's almost certain that we'll be virtually alone in observing the jungle stretching to the horizon.
For example, at Yaxhá, a ruin on the banks of a lagoon that is sometimes included in Tikal walking tours to conclude the archaeological visit with a spectacular sunset looking west from the top of Temple 216. The pyramid rises above the jungle allowing spectators to see parrots and monkeys up close as they wait for the sky in the Jaguar Kingdom to change from blue to gold, just as the Mayans once saw it. Here you can see temples and also roads that connect the ruins and rise several meters above the jungle floor; These streets made it easier for residents to access the lakeshore as well as the palaces and houses. You can spot wildlife from the ruins' shaded walkways, especially if you have some time before sunset. Like Tikal, Yaxha It also has architectural and historical connections to Mexican Teotihuacán, both in its Talud Tablero-style buildings and in the stelae depicting the non-Mayan Venus-Tláloc warriors of northern Mesoamerica.
Two visitors at the Mayan site of Yaxhá (Guatemala). Alamy Stock Photo
Another departure from Tikal takes you by boat to the little-visited, still unrestored ruins of Topoxté. The largest buildings are impressive, several stories high and lavishly decorated. Others remain completely unexcavated. There is also El Naranjo, a kingdom swallowed by the jungle and turned into an inaccessible place. The reward for getting there is the discovery of ruins that were perhaps even grander and even more important than Tikal in its heyday. The buildings rising above the jungle include an observatory, pyramids and the impressive palace. This non-place is not for spontaneous tourists, as visiting it requires careful planning, preparation and a bit of luck. But it is an enchanting and almost forgotten site that deserves its place in the fascinating legacy that the Mayans left to the world.
If the traveler enjoyed El Naranjo, they might want to add Nakum to their list. It's everything El Naranjo is… just heightened. Instead of a two or three hour journey, a visit to Nakum takes almost a full day (maybe longer), and the road is impassable most of the year. But in this place you will find some of the best preserved coats of arms in the Mayan world.
The stairs of Temple E in the Nakum ruins. Alamy Stock Photo
El Mirador, arrival on foot or by helicopter
Accessing El Mirador can be the most difficult or easiest of all the ruins in the jungle. It can be reached on foot in a journey of five or six days or by helicopter. The latter is the easy part, but it's not cheap and the time spent at the archaeological site is limited.
The main goal of visiting El Mirador is to climb La Danta, the highest pyramid in Guatemala (72 meters), which consists of several base platforms that must be climbed before the final pyramid appears. The climb to the summit involves a fair amount of sweat. However, it is very worth it to reach the Everest of the Mayan world and see the jungle in every direction.
Visiting El Mirador from the top of La Danta, the tallest pyramid in Guatemala. Alamy Stock Photo
There are also other smaller pyramids, such as El Tigre, with three peaks on a flat base and a beautiful stucco frieze that adorns a cistern. The perfectly preserved stucco depicts scenes from Xibalbá, the Mayan underworld; In particular, it shows how the “twin heroes” managed to return victorious from Xibalbá. Some incredible sac-be (white roads) connected El Mirador to other nearby locations, with paths that ran several meters above the jungle floor.
Sunsets on Isla de Flores and Santa Elena de la Cruz
The starting point for tours to Petén is usually the small island of Flores and the nearby town of Santa Elena de la Cruz, with bars and restaurants, nightlife and a starting point for all kinds of day trips.
Exploring the entire island takes less than 10 minutes by car and less than half an hour on foot, but no traveler misses it. The biggest draw is the sunsets, and the west-facing restaurants fill up with drinks or dinner as you watch the sun set in such peaceful surroundings that it's easy to imagine the Mayans feeling the same sense of awe before the sun.
Aerial view of Flores Island in Lake Petén Itzá.Oleh_Slobodeniuk (Getty Images)
There is water everywhere on Flores, and the changing water levels sometimes make access to certain areas difficult. The water level rises and falls not with the tides but with the seasons, and the island temporarily gives over its curbs, cobblestones, and sidewalks (even entire streets) to frogs, tadpoles, herons, and fish. No problem: almost all restaurants and bars are building temporary sidewalks so that people can reach the bar despite the flooding. Flores offers the only nightlife in all of Petén. Shortly after the stars come out, things get busy. People usually go to the west side of the island to have a drink, chat and socialize. Just walk around the main circle (especially around Unión and 30 streets) and follow the music you like the most, up stairs, narrow streets or even pedestrian bridges, until you find the ideal spot for each. This could be karaoke in a bar, a lively party on a terrace or even a few drinks with new friends in a hostel.
And during the day it is impossible to be in Flores and not end up in the lake. The water is quite calm and crystal clear and the shortest boat ride is pleasant.
Near Flores
If someone has had enough of Flores, there is much more to see in the area. In the region around Flores and Santa Elena de la Cruz there are forests, jungles and pastures. And water, lots of water when you're on the shores of Lake Petén Itzá. For tourists, excursions through the region are the equivalent of bustling Flores or dusty Santa Elena: you can cross the lake to discover the currently excavated Mayan ruins, learn about endangered wildlife, or simply rest on the banks of the Petén Itzá.
One option is to go to Tayasal, very close to the huge Mayan ruins, which are still being excavated and have much more to offer than previously thought. There, at its vantage point, in one of the tallest buildings in the ruins, you can see Flores at our feet and the lake stretching in all directions. Like other places, there were houses, pyramids, observatories and ball games. The population numbered tens of thousands of inhabitants, a heavyweight among the civilizations that settled on the shores of the lake.
For those looking for wildlife rather than Mayan ruins, a visit to the ARCAS Rescue Center may be the easiest way to see some of the region's most endangered wildlife, including the big cats: jaguars, pumas, ocelots and Jaguarundies. There are also dozens of macaws, parrots and other birds that live here because they were involved in the illegal wildlife trade. Although it's not exactly a zoo, there is a path between various informative cages that you can walk around freely.
View of Lake Petén Itzá in Guatemala. Alamy Stock Photo
Another special experience: a jump in Jorge's rope swing, which is nothing more than a series of rickety platforms on the Tayasal/San Miguel side where there is a rope with which you can jump into the lake. Specifically, it's about a cenote, which is one of its deepest places, so you don't have to worry about falling into the mud (you would have to go down a hundred meters to reach the bottom). Just wait your turn and jump.
There are many people who prefer to set off and go around Lake Petén Itzá on a beautiful circular route: Santa Elena de la Cruz, El Remate, Ixlú, a small stop on the Cahuí hill or in the towns of San José and San Andrés (Coast Northwest), a fantastic photo at the westernmost point of the lake, where the Sacpuy Bridge crosses a small marshy finger very popular with fishermen and bird watchers. And from there back to Santa Elena to complete the circle.
El Remate and the Santa Calavera procession
Located at the eastern end of Lake Petén Itza, El Remate is an alternative to Flores, much quieter but also right on the water. Although you come here to get to Tikal, there are those who take it easy and spend days or even weeks swimming from the docks, kayaking, having a drink by the lake in a hammock, watching the sunset to look at or watch the birds swarming along the lake benches full of reeds or looking for the feeders that people have put up for them. It is a perfect place for kayaking and paddling and even swimming. However, keep this in mind: there are crocodiles in this part of the lake!
One of the streets of the city of El Remate. Alamy Stock Photo
The surroundings of El Remate can be an original way to connect with this part of Guatemala, with quiet towns and original traditions, such as the Santa Calavera procession, an original celebration of the Day of the Dead, more macabre than the famous and public holidays here in Mexico or the rest of the country. In the small town of San José on the northwest side of Lake Petén Itzá, a strange procession takes place on November 1st: real human skulls – presumably the skulls of the Itza Maya ancestors – are used in a mix of Catholic and pagan traditions. The procession takes place at night and leaves the church where the sacred skulls are kept. The skulls then visit various members of the community who receive blessings. Unlike many other celebrations in Guatemala, this is a somber event carried out with respect and solemnity. This is a tradition that has probably existed since the Mayan period.
Another excursion from El Remate takes you to corners of the jungle, such as Cerro Cahuí Biotopo, a vast protected jungle area on the northern shore of the lake. Once inside, there are two routes through the dense jungle where you can see orchids, bromeliads, vines and various jungle plants, as well as (hopefully) tepezcuintles, coatis, foxes, squirrels and even a larger mammal or two. If you look into the treetops you can see spider monkeys and howler monkeys, parrots and toucans. There are also several small, unrestored Mayan ruins, but most importantly, Cerro Cahuí is the habitat of the majestic jaguar, although it is difficult to spot. For many hikers, the best thing about these trails is the beautiful views from the viewpoints on the tops of the various hills with the lake at their feet.
Navigating the Depths of the Mayan World: Sayaxché
If the area around Tikal or Flores seems touristy, there are many alternatives. For example Sayaxché, on the south bank of the La Pasión River, 60 kilometers southwest of Flores. It is the gateway to a dozen rarely visited Mayan archaeological sites, including Ceibal, Aguateca, Dos Pilas, Amarindito or Altar de Sacrificios. If you want to explore a part of Guatemala that most tourists ignore, you'll need to stay here for at least one night, although you can spend weeks in the area to explore them all. Apart from its strategic location between Flores and the Cobán area, Sayaxché is above all a starting point for visits to places such as the Blue Crater, a crystal-clear natural pool fed by a spring at the end of a river.
There are other rarely visited places like El Ceibal, with long paths through the jungle and a strange circular rather than square construction with clear Mexican influences. It is believed to have had a population of more than 10,000 before its abandonment in the 10th century. EITHER Aguateca, which is not easy to reach, but for the Mayans that was the idea. The city was well defended, not only because of its remote access via the Petexbatún Lagoon, but also because it was built on a steep hill on almost all sides. Its viewpoint offers impressive views of the region. It would have been easy to detect the advance of an opposing army long before it arrived. Nevertheless, the city, like the other Mayan cities in the area, was hastily abandoned, raided and burned.
Mayan ruins at the Guatemalan site of Aguateca in the department of Petén. Alamy Stock Photo
And if the traveler dreams of a boat trip, the island of Chiminos cannot be missed. It is usually reached by boat from Sayaxché, a two to three hour cruise. But upon arrival, the charming jungle lodge offers everything your heart desires: good food, relaxing hammocks, incredible views and monkeys frolicking in the treetops. Once you're here, it's easy to forget that real life is somewhere and that you have to get back there… Eventually.
Subscribe to the El Viajero newsletter here and get inspiration for your next trips on our Facebook accounts. X and Instagram.