Iris Apfel was a small woman, but her charisma filled everything. The fashion writer, interior designer, New York socialite and accessories designer died on March 1 at the age of 102 at her home in Palm Beach, Florida, as reported on her personal social media. He lived a long and extraordinary life full of color and extravagance. And it celebrated every moment of its 102nd anniversary; In fact, just two days ago she shared a photo on Instagram in which she celebrated her 102nd birthday, posing in front of some silver fringed curtains with a lush cape, her inseparable glasses and her necklaces and bracelets, accessories that she transformed into a symbol of the Identity.
Apfel, born August 29, 1921 in Queens, New York, worked at leading fashion company Women's Wear Daily and married Carl Apfel, owner of a textile company, in 1948, with whom she shared her life (he died in 2015). 100 years old) and his passion for beautiful fabrics and interior design founded the company Old World Weavers. Apfel subsequently worked as a decorator for nine presidents in the White House, established collaborations with brands of all kinds (one of the last in 2022 with the textile giant H&M) and became a fashion reference: the Met in New York dedicated in 2005, she hosted an exhibition for her, Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Apfel Collection, to celebrate “one of fashion’s most important style creators,” according to the museum, and explore her taste for fashion, accessories and accessories. She explored the power of clothing and accessories to elevate style over fashion, the individual over the collective.”
“I am a person who does everything from my gut. Even when I get dressed. I don't improvise or develop strategies. The same cannot be said for anyone else, but I never judge people. If it works for you, don't torture yourself, be happy. It's better to be happy than to be well-dressed,” she told S Moda in 2015 when she traveled to Barcelona to accept a tribute from the 080 Barcelona Fashion Catwalk. Years earlier, on March 30, 2013, at the age of 91, the charismatic apple was featured on a cover of S Moda. He then welcomed the magazine to his home in New York to share his very personal universe with readers. We remember the photo session and the interview here.
*This article was originally published on the S Moda website in March 2013.
Iris fills everything. At 91, this living legend of interior design, a true figure in New York society, lights up every place he enters. After two months of calls, we managed to end the meeting. Ms. Apfel doesn't like technology. «If you want me, you can reach me by phone. Email and cell phones have only made young people sluggish and boring. “They no longer know how to speak and communicate,” he comments with his strong sense of humor.
Iris Apfel became famous at the age of 84 after being the subject of a major exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2005 (Iris Apfel: rare reviews). More than 80 suits from his unique fashion collection were on display there, which includes pieces from Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Nina Ricci, Geoffrey Beene, Lanvin, etc. However, his style set new standards a long time ago when he proved with his special taste that fashion is intuition and that combining designer pieces with flea market clothes is not only allowed, but a path to success and ignores stereotypes. The exquisite textile and interior design company Old World Weavers, which she founded with her husband Carl, led to her having clients such as Greta Garbo, Patricia Nixon and Estée Lauder, and decorating the White House for nine presidents, from Harry S. Truman to Bill Clinton.
«Suddenly I became a geriatric star. My husband and I laughed a lot about the situation. I've been doing this all my life and now I find lots of magazines, especially European ones, that write about me. “But I'm not doing anything different than what I've been doing for the last 70 years!” he says with a laugh as he takes my arm and we try to call a taxi.
On the way to her Park Avenue home, Iris admits that she never thought she would be so active at 91. “At my age, it's incredible to have to do all these races and be in all the places at the same time.” “I design glasses, bags and shoes, and I'm also doing a program for the University of Texas because they made me a professor have!” she says tirelessly. His apartment is like a prop warehouse because he has so many different items and treasures from all over the world. «I like collecting items from my travels. “Have you seen the photo of the salon?” she asks proudly, referring to a striking image from the campaign she did with cosmetics company MAC, for which she created a colorful collection of lipsticks, eyeshadows and other items inspired by her powders. And after offering me tea in the cozy wooden dining room of his house, he begins to remember.
Vintage Gianfranco Ferré coat and Rara Avis jewelry by Iris Apfel for HSN. (Styling by ALEJANDRA MUSI & SONNY GROO).
How did you become interested in art and style?
I always had it. My mother was a very well-dressed woman and we had a beautiful house. And my father worked in the import business and brought beautiful things from all over the world. One of her sisters, who I greatly admired, went to art school and later became a designer, so I grew up with that interest.
She always talks about her mother and the advice she gave her to be well dressed despite the difficult times they had to go through.
I'm a Great Depression girl, we didn't have a lot of money. Nobody had it. And when you got a little, you learned to spend it wisely. I've been buying my own wardrobe since I was 11 because my mother worked and didn't have time to go shopping with me. The first year I did it because Easter was coming up and I thought, “My God, I don't have a new model for the occasion.” So everyone bought something brand new that day and showed it off on Fifth Avenue. They called it the Easter parade. It was wonderful. So my mother said to me, “I’m sorry, Iris. If you want a new dress, you have to find it yourself. And he gave me the princely sum of $25, which was a lot of money at the time. I went to a discount store downtown where I found an item of clothing that I fell in love with. Suddenly I thought: “No, remember that your mother always says that you have to compare.” “You can't buy the first thing you see because you have to be sure of its value.” I left him, got down got on the subway and went to 34th Street, where there were a dozen wonderful shops. Everything I saw was worth three times as much as the other dress, so I bought it again. I bought it for $12.95 along with a hat that cost $3. Then I went to a shoe store whose owner became my customer years later and whose son Stuart Weitzman is now a great shoe designer. For $25 I had everything and still had money left to eat lunch and go home. I remember everyone complimenting my purchases. My mother always told me that I had very good taste and my father that I was a good economist. That was the secret.
Jewelry and accessories are further strengths.
Yes, I bought my first piece of jewelry at that age and I've been collecting it ever since. You learn that through practice. You may make some mistakes, but you have to have the courage and interest to go places and see, see, see. In shops, museums, books. You have to sharpen your vision. It is not something that comes naturally. Everything worth having in life has a price to pay. My mother always said that accessories are the most important thing when you own a few simple items of clothing. He loved architectural clothing, well cut, with good fabrics and very simple. And me too. I like outfits that I can dress up. With a few accessories you can transform your daytime look into an evening look. And of all, jewelry is the best because when you change it, you change your entire mood. You can look serious, funny, sexy… whatever you want! Shoes are also important. Sometimes in museums I show how it is possible for people to change their appearance with minimal details.
Dolce & Gabbana dress, vintage jewelry and colorful Rara Avis bracelets by Iris Apfel for HSN. (Styling by ALEJANDRA MUSI & SONNY GROO)
I'm sure people often ask you what you need to do to find your own style.
Always. And my answer is that they have to work on it. It's different for every person. There is no formula. For me, style is above all attitude. It has nothing to do with how much money you have. I know a lot of people with a lot of money who have no style and people with no money who look great. It's the way you think about yourself. Be curious about yourself. It takes time. You have to know yourself and know that it doesn't matter how beautiful a piece of clothing is. If you don't feel comfortable in it, it will look like you borrowed it. Trying to copy someone's appearance is stupid.
What does fashion mean to you?
It is a very serious product. Sometimes it can be seen as something very stupid. But if you really study it, you realize that it is a reflection of politics, social life, the economy, the atmosphere. This is our way of life. If you compare costumes from different eras, you'll find that people dress a certain way for a reason. As women became stiffer, corsets were loosened. Things don't just happen, everything happens for a reason!
What do you think fashion reflects today?
Total chaos, daze, confusion, no sense of direction or discipline. Unfortunately, most young designers don't want to work hard. There are some, thank God! But there are many who end up becoming media fans. Many are attractive young people who can only do one thing: get a lot of press and win over editors. But to make something really high quality, you have to be able to cut, sew and draw. Don't just sketch. These days, most designers rely on others to do their work.
Who are your friends in this industry? Your favorite designers?
I don't have many friends because I was never in the fashion industry, but rather in the decoration industry. But I always loved it. Therefore, I traveled a lot to Europe and my visits always coincided with the catwalks. After the shows I went to the autograph signings and asked if there was anything they wanted to get rid of and I bought it. I've never been able to buy anything from Valentino because they're cut for very short girls. But I didn't have to do anything to the clothes from houses like Dior or Nina Ricci, maybe a hem. I got my hands on wonderful things because they were desperate to get rid of them. Back then, some brands also had stores where they sold samples. I always liked unconventional fashion, which luckily didn't sell that well and was cheaper. So I built a beautiful collection with little money.
Chado Ralph Rucci blouse, vintage pants and shoes, and Rara Avis jewelry by Iris Apfel for HSN. (Styling by ALEJANDRA MUSI & SONNY GROO)
This was the example that was on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Yes, it was great and I've been to a lot of museums.
You have worked in the White House for nine presidents. What was that experience like?
It was a wonderful job and very exciting because I got to meet them all, but the only woman I really worked with a lot was Mrs. Nixon because she was passionate about the house. But the first thing you learn is that neither presidents nor their wives have anything to do with decoration. Not even Jackie. There is a Fine Arts Commission whose job it is to ensure that any changes made are as close as possible to the original design. It is more of a restoration work. Of course, the presidents and their wives can make any changes they want on the top floor, where their rooms are located.
You've always said you're a free spirit, and that's what led you to quit your job at Women's Wear Daily.
Absolutely. If you close your mind to just one thing, you won't learn anything. Diana Vreeland said that “too much good taste can be boring.” There are people who copy everything. But you have to mix and match to look with the personality. I think you should be yourself.
What have you learned from your travels around the world?
All. Life is the best inspiration. And you learn this from people when you read books, visit museums, walk down the street, see a play, hear a song. You never really know where it's going to come from. But one thing is clear: you always have to move.
Do you think fashion has an age?
No. In fact, I don't like modernity. Trends come and go. I like timeless clothes, simple things, things that can be worn for a long time, even though everything is disposable right now.