Mushroom lentil ‘Bolognese’
Active time: 40 mins
Total time: 1 hour
Servings:6
Active time: 40 mins
Total time: 1 hour
Servings:6
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I’m usually not a fan of quotation marks in recipe names, especially when it comes to plant-based versions of meat dishes. You know, fried “chicken” sandwiches, when the “chicken” is actually an oyster mushroom, that kind of thing. In recipes I’m developing for a new cookbook, I call a whole variety of bacon-like versions “crisps” for this very reason.
But sometimes you just can’t help it, for example when you’re cooking a sauce that’s known for its use of multiple meats and for its long process, and you don’t do either, but still want to evoke the reference and feel. You want to focus on vegetables and get dinner on the table quickly.
This fantastic recipe from Ella Mills’ latest cookbook is a radical departure from the Italian classic Ragu Bolognese. It comes together quickly enough for a weekday and gets its depth of flavor not from meat or time, but from a smart combination of umami-packed ingredients: two types of mushrooms, two types of tomatoes, and soy sauce. To all you Italian purists out there, I know what you’re thinking.
I wanted the ultimate Bolognese. Six recipes later I had the best ragout of them all.
Here’s the thing: I no longer eat meat that’s included in traditional Bolognese, and yet I want something with the same vibe. So when I spied the recipe on How to Go Plant-Based, I gave it a try and appreciated how dried porcini and fried creminis along with canned (or other pre-cooked) lentils gave me the same effect. I tossed the sauce with the noodles, twisted my fork, and let out an audible sigh of pure comfort and satisfaction.
In her book, Mills uses the B-word without any restrictions, but I’ve opted for the old quotation mark treatment. You can do both – or call it something else if you like – but whatever you do, I hope you make it. It is so good.
Mushroom lentil ‘Bolognese’
The sauce goes great with pasta, as shown here, but you can also use it to garnish rice or other grains, or baked white or sweet potatoes.
storage: Store leftovers in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. The sauce can be frozen for up to 3 months.
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- 1 ¼ cups Crunchy vegetable broth or store-bought low-sodium vegetable broth
- 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
- 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
- 1 medium yellow or white onion (8 ounces), chopped
- 1 medium carrot, scrubbed and chopped
- 1 stick of celery, chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 tablespoon tamari or light soy sauce
- 2 cups tomato puree
- Two (15 ounce) cans of green lentils, drained and rinsed
- 1 pound dried whole wheat spaghetti
- 1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Pour the broth into a microwave-safe bowl or liquid measuring cup and heat on HIGH until hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the dried mushrooms and leave to soak for 10 minutes, then strain the broth through a fine mesh strainer to catch any grits. Wash mushrooms, squeeze out excess water and cut into small pieces.
While the mushrooms are soaking, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
Pour in the mushroom broth and chopped mushrooms and add the tomato paste and tamari, stirring to combine. Bring to the boil, then add the tomato puree and lentils. Return to a simmer and cook until mixture has thickened and flavors are fused, 15 to 20 minutes.
While the lentil mixture is cooking, bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti al dente according to package directions. Drain well.
Meanwhile, in a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over high heat until shimmering. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan, add a layer of mushrooms and cook, without disturbing, until lightly browned on one side, 1 minute. Flip the mushrooms and fry on the other side until lightly browned, 1 minute. Transfer the cooked mushrooms to the lentil mixture. Continue with the remaining mushrooms, adding 1 teaspoon oil before frying each batch and adding more oil as needed.
Stir the parsley into the sauce. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
Add the spaghetti to the sauce and toss until completely coated and serve hot.
Per serving (1 1/3 cups pasta plus 1 cup sauce)
Calories: 512; total fat: 7 g; Saturated fat: 1 g; cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 445 mg; carbohydrates: 96 g; dietary fiber: 13 g; sugar: 11 g; Protein: 27 g
This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not replace the advice of a nutritionist or nutritionist.
Adapted from “How to Go Plant-Based” by Ella Mills (Möbius, 2022).
Tested by Joe Yonan; Email questions to [email protected].
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