The first encounter: a roundabout with a sign pointing to Cuneo. Which we studiously ignore. Our route took us through northern Italy towards the Côte d'Azur. We had no eyes or leisure for anything with “Cu…”. A few years later, I rediscovered the city whose name I had long forgotten: a trip to the French-Italian Alps, the focus of which was cycling along the high alpine military road “Alta Via del Sale”. The starting point for the climb to 2,000 meters was Cuneo, and this time we took our time.
Today Cuneo is, geographically speaking, on the corner. The road to the Riviera has been closed since the devastating storms of 2020 closed, probably until May this year. The old Tenda railway, also called the “Railway of Wonders”, still runs from Cuneo to Ventimiglia or Nice (the route splits). An eight-kilometer-long tunnel crosses the main mountain range of the Alpes-Maritimes. With a total of around a hundred tunnels and a difference in level of over 1000 meters to overcome, this is one of the most beautiful routes in the Alps, a delight for railway romantics.
Arches and mountains
Cuneo connects and links Piedmont with the Mediterranean – history shapes the city, the medieval core gives rise to its charm. Via Roma not only separates rows of buildings, but also historical periods: on one side the Middle Ages greet you, on the other the 18th and 19th century arcades that line the shopping street. The city is proud of its arcades, which stretch for eight kilometers.
Cuneo can be reached by train from Turin or Milan in two hours, and Limone can also be reached in just over half an hour by train, so no cars: Limone is the starting point for tours on the “Alta Via del Sale” – an attraction for motorcyclists and cyclists, but also walkers and off-roaders. Fortunately, on certain days the route is closed to non-motorized two-wheeled cyclists.
Another attraction of unknown beauty in Piedmont is the natural park. Cuneo means “wedge” – the city sits on a hill, and this hill forms a wedge between two rivers, Stura and Gesso. An elevator takes you from the upper city to the “Parco fluviale Gesso e Stura”, which also has space for bicycles. The unspoilt river landscape can be wonderfully explored with bicycles, which you can also borrow.
Class instead of quantity
Don't you know the city of Cuneo? Then you should meet her. But you certainly know a greeting from the region: Alba, the home of Nutella, is located in the province densely covered in hazelnuts. Autumn weekends are dedicated to the famous white truffle.
We are lucky and experience the region's culinary delights in a particularly elegant setting: on this July day, 400 dignitaries sit at a long table along Corso Nice, which leads to the huge Piazza Galimberti. We can also treat ourselves to this charity event. The title of “Alpine City of the Year” will boost tourism. There is no need to fear the destructive power of the masses here.