Sales of glitter powder boomed this fall in several European Union countries, including Germany. For what ? Because this slow poison for soils and oceans has been disappearing from cosmetics shelves since October 17th.
Published at 2:04 am. Updated at 8:00 a.m.
The end of plastic glitter follows the European Commission’s Zero Pollution Action Plan. The goal is to reduce microplastic pollution by 30% by 2030.
The regulation targets plastic flakes with a size of 5 millimeters or less. There can be no question of a complete ban: The total sales ban initially applies to decorative glitter items, handicrafts, Christmas decorations, party hats and certain toys. Not with cosmetics and sparkly clothing.
The aim is to promote the “replacement” of plastic straws, the commission explained. “This restriction contributes to the ecological transition of the industry and promotes innovative products without microplastics, both for cosmetics and detergents, without forgetting sports surfaces,” explained Thierry Breton, Commissioner for the Internal Market, in an official announcement at the end of September.
Biodegradable glitter in Montreal
In Montreal, the news had a real “boost” effect for young entrepreneur Clara Belghazi. Six months ago, the 27-year-old officially founded Stella, a biodegradable glitter startup. She explains that she is forced to buy from the British company Bioglitter in order to sell her little glitter pots online.
PHOTO PROVIDED BY STELLA PAILLETTES
Clara Belghazi is a young entrepreneur behind the start-up Stella. She sells biodegradable glitter, a rarity on the market unless you import it.
I’ve always loved glitter, I love anything that glitters, but I was aware that it was bad for the environment. The 100% biodegradable glitter is more pearly, it is not always round and perfect. The shape is more abstract. But our glitter does not contain any plastics. They are designed with insect resin, among other things.
Clara Belghazi, from young Shooting Stella
Lionel Ripoll is a professor in the Department of Basic Sciences at the University of Quebec at Chicoutimi (UQAC). He created a specialized course in cosmetology. According to him, the cosmetics industry has been aware of the harmful effects of glitter since the 1990s.
“To my knowledge, there is no company in Quebec that makes biodegradable glitter,” says Mr. Ripoll. It’s a good deal to want to get rid of it. There are natural options, even if there are issues with color vibrancy. It is possible to innovate with plant-based ingredients, particularly cellulose. »
Attitude, a facial and body care company, is currently working in the lab to bring eyeshadows to market that have a non-plastic shimmer. Hans Drouin, vice president of research and development at Attitude, believes innovation is possible through the use of bamboo or natural minerals from the ground.
“We can bet that this is what will happen when the European Union makes a decision,” he states. Taking a bath with potentially carcinogenic products that are bad for the planet is just ridiculous. »
Microspheres banned in Canada
In Canada, microspheres in toiletries regulations prohibit the manufacture, importation and sale of toiletries containing plastic microspheres used for exfoliation or cleaning, including non-prescription medications and natural health products. This regulation has been in force since 2019.
The Federal Ministry for the Environment and Climate Change states that if a straw is a plastic particle whose size is less than or equal to 5 millimeters, it could theoretically meet the definition of microspheres.
“Although there are currently no plans to expand the scope of the regulations, Canada continues to monitor other jurisdictions. Data continues to be collected on the sources that contribute to microsphere accumulation. “The government is working with its international partners (for example, the United Nations and the G7) to address the problem of marine litter and microplastic pollution,” said Eleni Armenakis, spokesperson for the ministry.
The question still remains about glitter on clothing. Currently, the European Commission states that they are considered an “integral part of the article” when it comes to clothing, shoes or curtains. The use of glitter on these items is not restricted, but could be a next step.
Professor Marie-Ève Faust from the UQAM École supérieure de mode (Department of Strategy, Social and Environmental Responsibility) believes that there is a great desire to get better in the sector, but that it is not so easy . “We have to think about solutions,” she summarizes.