In a world where technology is evolving every second, brands are beginning to swim against the tide of trends by proposing to take a few steps back. Handcrafted products conquer tastes and spaces in the decoration of homes and in consumers’ wardrobes, with the appeal of a conscious use of materials and greater durability in relation to the amount of work involved.
In the United States, two New York brands are bringing this idea, each in their own way. While startup Cicil saved the traditional method of loomweaving woolen rugs, The Citizenry (“Citizenship”) brings together crafts from different parts of the world.
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“Standard manufacturing is designed to be fast, inexpensive and consistent,” says Carly Nance, cofounder. “The vast majority of textile production doesn’t take into account factors beyond that, and it’s clear that those revenues came at a higher price.” At Citizenry, the retailer works with suppliers, including women from Afghanistan who have had to find new ways to produce handmade Carpets for sale after the Taliban took control of the country.
The shop pays artisans two to three times the trade standard, on average, according to a report in Fast Company magazine. It’s a type of business that bets on the conscience of consumers who need to stop seeing carpets as cheap and disposable.
“Fair trade has different prices and consumers are starting to appreciate that. There is a renewed interest in pieces meant to be passed down the generations.”
2 of 3 rugs marketed by The Citizenry. — Photo: Disclosure
Carpets distributed by The Citizenry. — Photo: Disclosure
Durability is also an important point in Cicil’s concept, which found the raw material in a discarded type of wool. Starting with the material rather than the trend, the partners saw the business take shape.
Cicil’s suppliers are a cooperative that works with small wool producers in upstate New York, whose material was considered too thick for items like sweaters. “There’s not a very established market,” says Laura Tripp, who, like her partner Caroline Cockerham, worked for major fashion brands for a decade.
“Because it is made in small batches by small farmers, they have nowhere to sell this wool, which ends up being thrown away or even incinerated. We were able to unlock a supply chain that would bring this material together and turn it into something of great value.”
The company makes carpets where the wool is not dyed; For shades of gray, designers mix black and brown wool. A third generation textile mill in North Carolina, with some of the newest wool braiding machines in the United States, processes the yarns, which are then braided in the traditional manner.
3 of 3 machines from service providers of the Cicil brand, which produces handmade carpets. — Photo: Disclosure
Machines from service providers of the Cicil brand, which produces handmade carpets. — Photo: Disclosure
“We try to simplify things as much as possible and ask the question: Why do we have to change that?” says Tripp. Cicil manages to keep its prices competitive (a twometertall round rug costs BRL4,363), according to Fast Company, but like The Citizenry, they want consumers to “appreciate the literal number of hands that have touched this product.” field to the factory to bring it to the customer”.