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June 8, 2023 | 1:56 p.m
Two Chinese climbers have been commended for a dangerous and discouraged act on Mount Everest that saved another climber’s life.
Fan Jiangtao and Xie Ruxiang of south China’s Hunan Province were just 300 meters from the summit on May 18 when they made the difficult decision to abandon their ascent to save another climber.
Fan and his Sherpa stumbled over an unconscious woman as they painfully near the top of the world’s highest mountain.
It is not uncommon or frowned upon among Everest climbers for climbers to prioritize reaching the summit rather than helping others.
In fact, rescuing or assisting others over a distance of more than 5 miles is considered extremely dangerous for the rescuer and is not usually recommended.
Fan Jiangtao pictured. Pictured is Peking University Xie Ruxiang. Beijing University
However, Fan chose to save the Chinese woman who had been in perilous circumstances at an altitude of about 8.5 kilometers.
According to Fan, the leader of the Hunan Mountaineering Team, she ran out of oxygen, was shaking uncontrollably, and had lost a glove, leaving her hand blackened from frostbite.
According to the South China Morning Post, Fan said his goal has shifted from reaching the summit to saving a life.
“My mountain guide often asked me if I really wanted to forgo climbing the summit. I told him, “Yes, my goal is to save a life,” Fan said.
Xie Ruxiang and Fan Jiangtao made the selfless decision to cancel their summit to save a woman. Beijing University
Fan supplemented the woman’s oxygen with his own and briefly regained consciousness with chest compressions, sips of hot water, sugar and chocolate.
Fan and his Sherpa spent two hours arduously leading the woman 656 feet down a steep slope, where they met fellow climber Xie and his Sherpa.
After a grueling four hours, the couple and their Sherpas finally took the woman to Camp 4 below the “death zone,” and she has reportedly since recovered.
It was later revealed that Fan even helped pay for the $10,000 rescue fee for the Camp 4 woman.
“At such an altitude, just holding a water bottle makes you feel exhausted,” Fan said. “Because my companion and I had reached the limit of our physical endurance, we couldn’t move them anymore. I had to let her stay there and get help.”
Xie said as Fan, paralyzed with exhaustion, cried upon seeing him.
“He told me he wanted to save someone, but he didn’t have enough strength. I completely understood his desire to save a life. So I also decided to abandon my plan to reach the summit and joined him to save the woman,” he said.
The terrain and conditions of Mount Everest make the journey very difficult for climbers. Gelje Sherpa via Portal
“It doesn’t matter if she lives or dies, we must do our best to bring her to our base camp.
“She’s just there. If we don’t save her, she will definitely die. If we help, she’ll probably survive.”
Fan said it was his “lifetime dream” to reach the top of Everest, but he remains happy with his decision.
“Even though we haven’t reached the summit, saving a life is far more valuable than reaching the summit,” he said.
Xie added, “Climbing to the top of Everest is our dream, but it cannot be compared to life.”
Fan Jiangtao and Xie Ruxiang with the woman they rescued.
Peking University, where both Fan and Xie are graduates and are involved in the Mountaineering Association, praised the men’s efforts.
“Congratulations to two PKU members for their remarkable acts of bravery and goodwill,” it said.
“Faced with the dilemma of pursuing their dreams and helping a person in need, they made the commendable decision to quit and save the climber’s life.”
The 2023 Everest climbing season saw a record number of climbers and deaths.
Twelve people have died on the mountain this year, five are still missing and presumed dead.
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