Opening of Paris Fashion Week: Maria Grazia Chiuri's fall-winter show celebrates Miss Dior, the line created by Marc Bohan in the 1960s
The name Ms. Dior It is a name that has been known to the masses for decades, and it has become so for one reason above all: a famous perfume, the first perfume that Monsieur Christian Dior had Paul Vaucher make in 1947. A fresh and floral bouquet that makes you think about youth, and that perhaps not everyone knows was dedicated to the sister of Dior herself, whose figure was reflected in the same Baccarat crystal bottle: a bottle with a curved, feminine but modern Silhouette, just like the real Miss Dior.
However, there is another moment in the Parisian Maison's history when this nickname was honored. We are at the end of the 60s, in 1967, and the then creative director Marc Bohan opens the first boutique called Miss Dior in Paris, not far from the location of the historic boutique on Avenue Montaigne.
Dedicated to the eponymous line, it was born as a focal point for the daughters of the main boutique's customers and, despite its decidedly non-proletarian background, became the symbol of a new way of dressing, the brand's debut at Pret-a-Porter.
About an act of liberation that was felt in the society of the time and that is perfectly expressed in the notes of Je t'aime… Moi non plus, a scandalous song by Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, the soundtrack of much of the parade .
There is a lot of those years in the shapes we see on the catwalk: A-line skirts combined with sleeveless tops like in the 60s, with high boots but with low, comfortable heels.
Photo credit: Getty Images
Photo credit: Getty Images
What is most noticeable, however, are the maxi lettering graffiti The protest adorns jackets, skirts, suits and outerwear. “Miss Dior” can also be read on the trench coats, black on beige, almost as if they wanted to spoil formality and precision.
Photo credit: Getty Images
Photo credit: Getty Images
With her, the Miss reveals a more determined and devastating soul Animal prints, relied on trench coats and double-breasted coats, which are also combined with flat shoes, Mary Janes or simple pumps in a perfect emulation of the Sixties style. Maria Grazia Chiuri says she was also inspired by it Gabriella Crespi, an important figure in architecture and design on an international level. She was born in 1922, studied at the Polytechnic of Milan and was able to establish herself in a predominantly male world by bringing her sculptural art, full of references to the animal world, to a very high level.
The more playful part leaves room for hints that go far beyond pret-a-porter, with jeweled appliqués, shiny fringes and precious embroidery. The clothing has a straight silhouette, always in line with the main inspiration, but is enriched with transparencies and avoids visible slogans and logos, revealing the most elegant and refined soul of Dior.
Photo credit: Getty Images
Photo credit: Getty Images
The accessories don't go unnoticed either: the new bags have maxi lettering, redundant, large and with a spray effect or finely composed of rivets, complemented by buckles that are themselves massive and meaningful.
Photo credit: Getty Images
Photo credit: Getty Images
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