Panama, the youngest nation in Latin America, a double umbilical cord connecting Central and North America with South America and the Atlantic Ocean with the Pacific, is a small country with enormous contrasts and large and very diverse tourist attractions. Like little floating corks in the huge bay, countless huge trading ships off the English Channel are waiting for their turn to change oceans. the city's imposing profile of skyscrapers against a stormy sky; We'll be landing in Panama soon. In the next few days we will visit popular destinations in the country and also discover unexpected and remote places.
Let's start with the capital. Old Panama and Panama Viejo are the same city, but they are not the same. Let's go from the present to the past. Panama City is now a large city with narrow, high skyscrapers. The Latin American Manhattan or the Hispanic American Hong Kong; an important financial center and a modern, cosmopolitan and multi-ethnic metropolis with a wide cultural offer, among which stands out the Biomuseo, a museum of natural history, biodiversity and Panamanian culture, designed by the architect Frank Gehry. The leisure and dining options are equally interesting and varied: from the opportunity to enjoy nature in the nearby Metropolitan National Park, to hiking, bird watching or unparalleled views of the city skyline, to the opportunity to sample the best modern cuisine To taste. Panamanian in Maito or try a specialty of the country's traditional gastronomy while enjoying its folklore in Sabroso Panamá (ask for the owner Daniela Melani, it's worth knowing her).
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Exterior view of the Biomuseo in Panama City, a project by Frank Gehry.David Coleman (Have Camera Will
The Old Town is the colonial city built after the destruction of Panama's original capital (now Panama Viejo) by pirate Henry Morgan in 1671. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, it represents a clear example of an Indian population in urban planning, as it is designed in a reticulated form – aligned with the four cardinal directions – and has the classic Spanish Plaza Mayor as its center. As fires have occurred over time, its current configuration dates back to the end of the 19th century and includes colonial, neoclassical and art deco buildings… The old town of Panama has been gradually and carefully restored and invites the Visitors to stroll around It is quiet and enjoys its monuments and its lively gastronomic and commercial offer.
The Plaza Mayor, Plaza de la Independencia or popularly Plaza Catedral, has always been the epicenter of the old town and historical witness of great national events, such as the independence from Spain in 1821 and the secession of Colombia in 1913. Here there are two emblematic buildings : the Cathedral Basilica of Santa María La Antigua, with remarkable packaging and a clear baroque-colonial style, and the Central Hotel Panamá – the first in the country – which, over its 150 years of existence, hosted great travelers and personalities, such as Theodore Roosevelt. Other interesting places and monuments in the old town include Plaza Simón Bolívar, Plaza Herrera, La Merced Church, San José Church – famous for its legendary Golden Altar, a remarkable Baroque altarpiece covered in gold leaf – and the Oratory of San Felipe Neri , the Church of San Francisco de Asís, the ruins of the Monastery of Santo Domingo and the Monastery of the Society of Jesus – which housed the first Panamanian university. The official and civil buildings include the Bolívar Palace, the Palacio de las Garzas – seat of the Presidency of the Republic -, the National Theater, the Góngora House – one of the oldest in the country -, the Boyacá House, the Heurtematte Houses, Calvo Mansion, the Art Deco house…
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The Central Hotel Panamá, the first in the country, in front of the Plaza de la Independencia, in the old town of the Panamanian capital.Bogdan Lazar (Alamy / Cordon Pre
In the old town there are accommodations and tables for every budget. Among the hotels and restaurants to be highlighted, in addition to the one already mentioned with its wonderful Central Bistro, we recommend one of the newest and most remarkable establishments: the Hotel La Compañía, built with exquisite taste and historical respect on the same site where it once occupied. the old Jesuit monastery; Preserving architectural and archaeological remains from different eras and creating as many residential wings and themed restaurants as possible related to the aesthetics and cuisine of the different countries that were present or had historical influence in Panama (Spain, France and the United States). Even if you don't sleep or eat, a visit is recommended. Another great and brand new hotel is the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo, which enjoys a privileged location on the edge of the Pacific and with unbeatable views of the Panama City skyline. Good restaurants to enjoy Panamanian cuisine and have a drink in the old town are also Casablanca and Lo que hay.
Finally, let's talk about the first: Panama Viejo, the current name of the archaeological site that preserves the ruins of the original site of the first city of Panama, founded in 1519 by Pedrarias Dávila and destroyed by the English pirate Morgan. In its heyday, it was the place where gold arrived from Peru, which was sent to Spain after crossing the isthmus and changing oceans. Among its ruins, the old tower of the old church cathedral has been preserved. The large area containing the remains of the original Panama is undoubtedly worth a visit.
The ruins of the Church of the Society of Jesus in Panama Viejo.Leonid Andronov (Getty Images)
Colonial fortresses and Caribbean beaches
“In a single day I counted 200 mules laden with silver and gold…Stacks of silver bars piled up like stones in the streets…In a few days everything was loaded onto a fleet of eight galleons and ten merchant ships.” This is how the English clergyman described it Thomas Gage in 1637 the incredible spectacle he witnessed in the streets of Portobelo. Years earlier, Bartolomé de las Casas had written something similar, referring to the enormous movement of precious metals in the port of Nombre de Dios: “From there they went to Spain, coming from Peru, which was never seen or heard of, not even dreamed of an enormous amount of gold.”
For nearly three centuries, the Camino Real and the Camino de Cruces, which connected Old Panama in the Pacific with the Caribbean, were the routes along which the world's greatest wealth traveled in colonial times. The so-called South Sea Navy, created by the Spanish crown, was responsible for protecting the enormous quantities of gold, silver and precious stones that regularly arrived in Panama Viejo from the Viceroyalty of Peru. From there the immense treasures continued their journey until they reached first the ports of Nombre de Dios and then Portobelo on the Atlantic coast. Places from which the Indian fleet eventually delivered the valuable supplies to Spain.
To protect the circulation of such great treasures from greedy English piracy, Spain built various fortifications at key points on the trade routes that crossed the isthmus. One of these was the fortress of San Lorenzo, which sat on a high cliff overlooking the mouth of the Chagres River in the Caribbean. The fortress, commissioned by Philip II, was designed by the experienced engineer Bautista Antonelli. Over the centuries the site has been subjected to various attacks by privateers and British sailors (Francis Drake, 1596; Henry Morgan, 1671; Edward Vernon, 1740). The mandatory visit allows the traveler to enjoy spectacular jungle, river and sea views and view a magnificent example of military defense architecture.
From Panama Viejo on the Pacific to the ports on the Atlantic or in the Caribbean, the two routes mentioned above could be followed in colonial times: one by land (Camino Real) and the other by land, river and sea (Camino de Cruces). Both went to the town of Nombre de Dios and later to Portobelo. Since the city of Portobelo had better conditions than Nombre de Dios to organize the defense of the enclave, over time all commercial activities were concentrated in the former. For this reason, Portobelo preserves the remains of several fortifications that protected the bay and the natural harbor. The most important are the fortresses of San Jerónimo, San Fernando and Santiago. All of these defenses, unlike San Lorenzo, are still awaiting their well-deserved restoration. However, at sunset, the ancient ashlar stones – many of them made from coral stone – and the many cannons scattered along the walls make for a very stimulating and impressive experience. The fortifications of Portobelo have also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980.
The San Jerónimo Fortress in the Panamanian city of Portobelo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.MarcPo (Getty Images)
The recently restored building is the magnificent and historic Renaissance Royal Customs building dating from 1630, which was once the headquarters for control of the colonial transoceanic trade. The Church of San Felipe, which houses the famous and revered Black Christ of Portobelo, is another mandatory stop. Strolling around the city and adding a little imagination, one can imagine the hectic and chaotic hustle and bustle that the city would experience in the months or month and a half that the fair lasted after the fleet of India arrived with products from the peninsula from Panama Viejo arrived, right down to the huge train of mules loaded with all sorts of riches and exotic goods. If you stop for a drink, El Castillo is a good place to eat and has a lovely terrace overlooking the sea. And definitely stay at Casa Congo, where you can also eat wonderfully.
The surroundings of Portobelo offer numerous opportunities for hiking in the nearby natural parks or enjoying the paradisiacal waters and Caribbean corners along the region's coast. A good plan might be to take a boat along the coast towards Isla Grande, where you'll stay at the Candy Rose Hotel or Bananas Village. But beforehand and throughout the day, try to make the most of the day by sailing through mangroves, taking a swim, sunbathing, or snorkeling in one of the many coves or watering holes along the route. It's a good idea to eat in the small coastal town of Cacique. There are several places to choose from, but the shrimp and fried fish with plantains at Margarita's little Caribbean restaurant won't disappoint. She does everything: she cooks, she serves the four tables she has, and she reveals all her personal charm.
Aerial view of the Panamanian city of Portobelo.MarcPo (iStockphoto / Getty Imag
Tropical jungles and lost paradises
Getting to Playa Muerto is neither easy nor quick. From Panama City you first have to drive five to six hours on not particularly good roads, and then from Puerto Quimba another three hours by speedboat along the Iglesia River, along the Pacific coast, until you finally arrive at the northeastern end of the city Darién National Park – Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site – where, in a remote location accessible only by sea, there is a small lost paradise that is hard to believe. And a city of people from the Embera ethnic group, whose way of life is so harmonious and closely linked to nature that it seems like it comes from another time. An inherently environmentally protective indigenous community; Emberá is jealous of the preservation of its cultural identity, its traditions, its environment and, moreover, a striking kindness. It is not for nothing that Emberá means “good man”. Isolated from the world, on the edge of the jungle and on a wild, paradisiacal beach full of palm trees, 200 members of this special group of people live in their stilt houses and grow everything they need (banana, cassava, rice, corn, coffee). ..) and fish for everything they need, either at the mouth of the Jesús River or in the South Sea, which Vasco Núñez de Balboa discovered not far from there. The Emberá have their own language, they decorate themselves and paint their bodies colorfully, and although they are no strangers to certain achievements and comforts of modern society, they stubbornly adhere to maintaining the rites and customs of their ancestors. Women, for example, usually puff their breasts into the air, cook directly over the wood fire, and serve food and drinks in bowls and containers made from the hardened and carved shell of the gourd (a type of large fruit similar to the coconut). .
Members of the Embera ethnic group.Cindy Hopkin (Alamy)
Playa Muerto is a perfect destination for travelers who want to live experiences in close contact with the most intact and lush nature. Sleep, eat and live like a local. Nowadays, the few visitors who dare to come here are either passengers of a small cruise ship who reach the beach in rubber dinghies and spend time with the indigenous community, or small groups who enter the jungle to explore and routes of various kinds to do. Days inside, based on the city of Embera. Trekking, hiking, bird watching (especially the emblematic harpy eagle), finding tracks or specimens of jaguars and pumas… is possible, but there are very few local organizations that offer this. The most professional and recommended providers include Ecotour Darien and Dynamo Travel. Their respective managers, Erasmo de León and Gustavo Zevallos, are not only the most authorized people in the area to introduce you to and give you the opportunity to enjoy the flora and fauna of the virtually untouched Darién ecosystem, but also help the local People of Playa Muerto – continue with the Panama Tourism Authority – to preserve their culture by providing them with the necessary resources and creating the appropriate opportunities so that their community can enjoy sustainable development. In addition, in Playa Muerto you can also observe whales and the laying of eggs of various species of turtles at the appropriate time.
And of course the channel
According to Jerónimo Welchs, an experienced guide with the largest Panamanian tour operator Aventuras 2000, no one visiting Panama should leave the country without visiting the canal. It was Emperor Charles V who, in 1534, was the first to explore the possibility of building a canal in Panama that would connect the Atlantic with the Pacific through the narrowest part (82 kilometers) of the Panamanian Isthmus. However, we had to wait until 1880 until the French engineer Ferdinand de Lesseps tried to implement the project. After more than eight years and the deaths of 20,000 workers, work was halted until resumed by the United States, which completed the canal in 1914. Since then, the channel has continued to operate normally and continues to function; In order to allow larger ships to pass through, it was decided in 2006 to practically create a second canal with new, wider, longer and deeper locks, which were inaugurated in 2016. Even today, the Panama Canal remains one of the country's main sources of water income (6.8% of GDP), accounting for 6% of global commercial transportation.
View of the Panama Canal from the Agua Clara Visitor Center.Mabelin Santos (Alamy / Cordon P
This impressive work of modern engineering, as well as the maneuver of a large cargo ship from Lake Gatun to the Atlantic Ocean, can be viewed from the Agua Clara Visitor Center, where you can also enjoy a vivid audiovisual production that provides all sorts of interesting details about the place: history, function of the artificial Lake Gatún, biodiversity of the environment, operation of the locks, number and type of boats that pass through per day, prices paid… Closer to Panama City, it is also possible Find out everything about the canal at the Miraflores Visitor Center – from the Pacific side.
As the country's tourist slogan, among other things, tries to convey, there is a lot to experience in Panama; to whom we have told and many others to discover: “Panama lives for more.”
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