Our skin is designed to heal itself, but just as sometimes it's good to drink a strong coffee to activate it, sometimes the largest organ in the human body benefits from a little extra help. And this is where exosomes come into play, small vesicles released by cells in the process of exocytosis and containing a variety of bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids. “They play an important role in intercellular communication, where they act as messengers that transmit information between cells, and have been found to be involved in a variety of biological processes, such as embryonic development, immune system response and progression of cancer,” explains Dr. Beatriz Beltrán, head of the clinic that bears her name.
Although exosomes were discovered 15 years ago, until recently they were considered merely byproducts of cellular activity. And although their effectiveness in treating atopic dermatitis was established back in 2018, it was only in 2020 that other studies showed that they can also deeply repair and regenerate skin after ablative laser treatments and that they are equally effective in immunomodulatory therapies. Now they have aroused the interest of the scientific and medical community, which predicts that they are the future of regenerative medicine – this term was most often repeated during the research congress IMCAS World Congress, held in Paris earlier this month “And not only in the aesthetic field, but also in the regeneration of tissues in general, new forms of application and also new sources for their extraction,” explains Virtudes Ruiz, surgeon, aesthetic doctor and medical director of the Virtud Estética Clinic.
Exoso-Metic facial serum, by Dr. Barbara Sturm. Its formula with exosomes and synthesized growth factors, vitamin E and bergamot oil moisturizes and provides elasticity. 470 euros (sold at Tacha Beauty & Wellness).
“As they are powerful skin regenerators, exosomes balance and maximally regenerate the skin, improving its quality and luminosity and eliminating problems such as redness, opacity, photoaging, thin skin, enlarged pores, sensitivity, roughness or skin dryness,” explains Dr . Mar Mira, co-owner of Clínica Mira + Cueto, who also assures: “It has been proven that they exponentially increase the proportion of fibroblasts, collagen and elastin, essential for maintaining healthy, nourished and rejuvenated skin.” . How do they really do that? Until the end of last year, aesthetic doctors explained that they delivered these active ingredients into the skin using microneedles (such as the Dermapen), fractionated radiofrequency, fractionated microplasma, microneedles, mesotherapy or photobiodynamic therapy; The latter is the only one in which no needles are used and the epidermis is not damaged. However, after months of monitoring the use of exosomes as injectables, the SEME (Spanish Society of Aesthetic Medicine) sent a statement to all its partners last November reminding them that the Spanish Medicines and Health Agency ( AEMPS) is blunt: “Today there is no approved medicine that contains exosomes in its composition.” Consequently, they can only be used externally, without the help of utensils or devices that can enter the dermis.
Exoball ampoule from ID Placosmetics. Facial ampoule with exosomes, collagen, peptides and hyaluronic acid to revitalize and rejuvenate the face. 44.90 euros; for sale at Planet Skin.
What can be injected are autologous exosomes; that is, those derived from our own cells. “The procedure begins with a blood sample – this gesture avoids the risk of an allergic reaction since it is not a foreign product – to obtain PRP (platelet-rich plasma) through tea. “The Meta Cell Technology medical device is then used to obtain autologous plasma rich in exosomes and growth factors, which is then injected into the patient through a photothermoregulation process using red light and blue,” explains Dr. Beltran. In this way, in addition to alleviating the itching discomfort that PRP infiltration usually causes, it also increases the efficiency of this new combined process, as shown in the published study by the same expert: Efficacy and safety of photothermal activation of platelet plasma in facial rejuvenation .
The added benefit of these messengers is that they are suitable for all skin types as they offer various benefits: “Anti-inflammatory, used to treat dermatitis, inflammatory acne, follicles and atopic dermatitis; Antioxidant, improves wrinkles and prevents aging; regenerating, improves the skin barrier and forms new blood vessels as well as a brightening effect,” emphasizes Dr. María Rosa García Maroto, medical director of Clinique La Prairie Madrid. The result after use is “revitalized skin of the face, neck and décolleté thanks to the reduction of spots, wrinkles and acne scars; where the natural production of collagen and elastin was also significantly activated,” says Dr. Vicente. Likewise, “they represent an alternative for those people who are reluctant to use needles, since it is possible to open channels in the skin with other procedures, without punctures to ensure penetration,” emphasizes Mira.
Exo-Collagen 90 Pro Perfect Serum from Nine Tails. The exosomes, collagen and 12 vitamins contained in the formula provide moisture and firmness to the skin while rejuvenating it. 29.90 euros; for sale at Planet Skin.
It must be taken into account that exosomes are able not only to regenerate facial tissues, but also to treat the intimate area and the cells of the hair follicles of the scalp. And even if it is true that they are not able to promote the appearance of new hair, “they activate keratinocytes, fibroblasts, the synthesis of collagen and elastin, but above all they increase the regenerative capacity of the hair bulb, which is…” the group of cells in which hair is produced. The result is stronger and healthier curls,” explains Dr. Javier Pérez Diez, trichologist at Clínica Premium Marbella. Therefore, this protocol is usually prescribed for seasonal alopecia. “This severe hair loss that occurs after birth, after some surgical procedures and even during periods of stress is called telogen effluvium.” In these cases, the roots remain intact despite the loss; “In this way, the exosomes would recover and improve their function, giving them more strength for new healthy growth,” adds the same expert. And as in the case of the skin, it is advisable to use other methods of energy delivery, such as laser, to “enhance the positive effect of these active ingredients on the stimulation of the cells in the follicular unit on the scalp”. € he closes.
The vulvovaginal area can also benefit from exosomes. In fact, Zuramis Estrada, obstetric gynecologist and medical director of CIMEG Madrid, turns to her to help her patients with genital diseases such as urogenital atrophy, chronic dermatopathies such as atopic dermatitis of the vulva, lichen sclerotrophicus or lichen planus simplex; Scars due to old episiotomies, perineorrhaphy or other operations or trauma, as well as hyperpigmentation as an aid in genital whitening treatments. For this purpose, exosomes developed by Jan Lötvall, professor of cell biology at the University of Gothenburg (Sweden), are applied locally, the aim of which is to specifically treat the intimate area. “These are derived from recombinant Rosa damascena stem cells and when applied to the vulvovaginal tissue have anti-inflammatory effects, reduce irritation and improve immune modulation; “They improve dryness through increased expression of water-transporting proteins (aquaporins) and increase the production of hyaluronic acid in the treated area by up to 120%,” says Dr. Estrada, who applies them after a treatment with energies such as radiofrequency or laser, which serve as a vehicle for the product itself. “We are facing a revolution in regenerative medicine because of its effectiveness, immediate positive patient response and safety.” [existen más de 17 trabajos internacionales publicados sobre la materia y actualmente se están llevando a cabo varios ensayos clÃnicos]“Easy to use, no pain and no manipulation,” adds the same source.
Until now, this was an exclusive treatment for aesthetic medicine, but “in Korea it has been possible to isolate exosomes of plant origin and achieve spectacular results on the skin through special cosmetics,” reveals Karla Pires, pharmacist and head of quality at Korean cosmetics retailer Tradegate to Europe, who also adds: “These small vesicles have been shown to have positive effects, such as: B. cell regeneration, the reduction of inflammation and oxidative stress as well as the improvement of hydration and elasticity.” By incorporating it into the daily beauty routine, the delivery of the active ingredients to the skin is ensured, thus improving both the effectiveness of the cosmetic and the appearance Improves dermis health. It can therefore be assumed that this new active ingredient will penetrate our homes primarily in the form of serums.
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