In 2023, the fashion world witnessed numerous groundbreaking moments, such as the change of creative directors at some brands, but also iconic returns to complement the new fashion scene. Along with the changes, personalities such as Paco Rabanne and Davide Renne also died this year. To remember the highlights of events, check out the column's retrospective.
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Kendall Jenner in the final look from Schiaparelli's Spring/Summer 2024 collection
Change of creative directors at fashion houses
Gucci announced earlier this year who would succeed designer Alessandro Michele as the brand's creative director: fellow Italian Sabato De Sarno. The designer's first show, presented at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024, reflected a sophisticated look and marked the season with a nostalgic 1990s essence à la Tom Ford.
In March, Jeremy Scott, who has worked at Moschino for a decade, announced that he would be solely responsible for the brand itself. In September, the British Sarah Burton announced her resignation from the management of the Alexander McQueen label after 13 years.
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At the very end of the year, in December, the American designer Matthew Williams announced the end of his relationship with Givenchy, the house where he had held the position of creative director since 2020. However, the American promises news for the brand itself 1017 Alyx 9SM.
What better way to say goodbye than a samba? Another change that marked the fashion world was the presence of the Brazilian school Mangueira at the parade of the latest collection of the Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst for the French brand Chloé in September this year. She announced in July that she would be leaving the label.
After 12 years in various roles at Valentino, Sabato De Sarno is currently creative director at Gucci
Jeremy Scott held the position of creative director at Moschino for 10 years, but in 2023 he decided to devote himself exclusively to his own brand
Matthew Williams will step down as creative director of Givenchy in December 2023
Also in 2023, the Uruguayan Gabriela Hearst said goodbye to the fashion house Chloé
Louis Vuitton has gained a new creative director for its men's collection two years after the loss of designer Virgil Abloh: singer and music producer Pharrell Williams, who opened a new chapter for the brand and represented a unique but also controversial perspective for the designer label.
According to a survey by Lefty, an influencer marketing platform, the French brand topped the ranking of the most successful fashion shows in 2023 as measured by Earned Media Value (EMV). The earned media value represents, in free translation, the advertising of programs that takes place organically via communication channels such as social networks, the press, customers and virtual communities.
However, the upheavals in the international brand scene did not stop there. Labels Moschino and Alexander McQueen also introduced new creative directions, with the addition of designers Davide Renne and Seán McGirr, respectively.
Pharrell Williams' debut as a designer at Louis Vuitton was the most mediaengaged show of 2023, according to the platform Lefty
Davide Renne took over Moschino in October
Seán McGirr is Irish and has worked on his CV for JW Anderson and Burberry.
Deaths
The year 2023 was marked by sad news in the fashion scene: the untimely death of Davide Renne, the recently announced creative director of Moschino, at the age of 46. With a distinguished career, including two decades at Gucci where he led the women's collection, Renne left a significant legacy.
Another notable loss was that of fashion designer Paco Rabanne, who died in Portsall, France, in February this year at the age of 88. Known for his futuristic and metallic aesthetic, the Spaniard also stood out in the world of perfumery.
In addition, the fashion industry mourned the death of Ivan Bart, the former president of IMG Models, at the age of 60. He is considered a “titan of fashion” and has been praised for his contributions over three decades at the modeling agency, where he worked with the likes of Gisele Bündchen and Gigi Hadid.
Davide Renne died in November this year, a month after taking over as creative director at Moschino
Paco Rabanne died in February 2023. Although he defined himself as a classic, the designer was considered a visionary of futuristic fashion and left a great legacy
The return of Phoebe Philo, Victoria's Sercret and supermodels in the fashion world
After leaving a legacy at brands like Chloé and Celine, Phoebe Philo returned to the fashion world in 2023. The British designer, known for an elegant and minimalist style that long predates the advent of quiet luxury, launched the eponymous brand's first collection in October, and the pieces showcase Philo's signature DNA, now with a more pronounced dose Audacity.
Another highlight of the year was the launch of the documentary series “The Super Models”, which focuses on nostalgia for the 1980s and 1990s and pays homage to top models Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington. As a complement to the debut, the four protagonists also appeared on a special cover of Vogue, in both the North American and British editions.
Still iconic fashion returns: Victoria's Secret returned to the market this year with “The Icon” campaign. The lingerie brand sought to redefine its image and values. When promoting the comeback, he invited some of the most famous former Angels for the photos, including Gisele Bündchen, Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel and Naomi Campbell.
The collection, created by Phoebe Philo for her own brand, was released online for the first time
Victoria's Secret called on famous angels like supermodel Gisele Bündchen to make a comeback
Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington won documentary series
Margot Robbie: an event
The longawaited liveaction adaptation of the Barbie story hit theaters in July. The film's protagonist, Margot Robbie, transformed the pink carpets at the premieres into a veritable showcase of classic looks that shaped the doll's evolution over the decades.
The promotional trip delighted the character's fans and of course the fashion world, which contributed to an even more stylish atmosphere. The clothing items used in the film complemented the cinematic experience.
During the Barbiecore trend, Margot Robbie's iconic looks took over social media
The striped swimsuit, Barbie's trademark in 1959, was also recreated by the actress in 2023
At the premieres, the Australian opted for classic doll looks
The actress played Barbie for months to promote the film
First edition of the Latin American Fashion Awards
This November, the Dominican Republic hosted the Latin American Fashion Awards, the first international awards ceremony for Latin American fashion talent. The event took place at the Altos de Chavón Amphitheater and celebrated the excellence and creativity of Latin American fashion.
Founded by two influential fashion personalities, Constanza Etro and Silvia Argüello, the event celebrated three Brazilian winners at its first edition: Karoline Vitto as Designer/Emerging Brand of the Year; Divina from “Ode” as fashion film of the year; and Zaya Guarani as Fashion Influencer of the Year.
The presence of famous personalities such as J. Balvin, who was named Latin American Fashion Icon of the Year, and other notable names such as Tokischa, Petra Nemcova, Valentina Ferrer, Dascha Polanco, Candela Pelizza, Kiko El Crazy, Jenny Lopez and DJ Pope contributed to making the evening an unforgettable celebration of fashion in Latin America.
This year saw the first edition of the Latin American Fashion Awards
The indigenous Zaya was named Fashion Influencer of the Year
Brazilian Karoline Vitto won the Designer/Emerging Brand of the Year trophy.
Looking back at fashion events is like traveling back in time: they offer a more reflective look at changes over time. The visual compilations highlight not only the garments that “made waves,” but also the cultural movements, artistic influences, and designers that shaped the industry.