How Birkenstocks Went From Vintage To Fashionista Favorites

There aren’t many German orthopedic shoe brands that can claim to have become the toast of the fashion world – or have a current valuation of more than £4bn. But that’s the case with this summer’s most coveted shoes: Birkenstocks.

Whether on the feet of Gwyneth Paltrow in Los Angeles, Sienna Miller in New York or Claire Foy of The Crown in London, the chunky, sensible cork-soled shoes are everywhere and have finally shaken off their “old” reputation.

Outside the London stores, queues of shoppers wait to snag their popular Arizona two-strap styles and Madrid one-strap styles.

Not to brag, but this newfound enthusiasm comes as no surprise to me, having been a staunch Birkie devotee for years.

Despite being one of life’s high-heel wearers, I’m rarely without a new pair – I love their ease and versatility. I wear them with dresses and pants and for a variety of occasions (although I draw the line at Birkenstocks for party wear).

Sienna Miller walks the wild side in animal print leggings and a pair of Gizeh Birkenstocks

Model Kelly Brook jumps for joy in her brown Birkies

Actress Julianne Moore combines her black pair with a pretty dress

Gwyneth Paltrow in monotonous Arizonas

Yesterday my boyfriend looked admiringly at my beautiful cobalt blue suede versions that I bought for £125 a few months ago and said: “I had no idea they were Birkenstocks.” As a man with a penchant for heels, he couldn’t imagine himself to ever like a pair of these relentlessly unsexy shoes.

He’s the perfect example of how Birkenstocks have deftly shed their “old-fashioned” reputation while staying true to their core and catapulting them to A-list status.

Amid a revival of all manner of nostalgic footwear—clogs, Crocs, and jelly styles are all on offer—Birkenstocks are in a different league. They’re the Manolos of sandals (in fact, the heel king himself has collaborated with Birkenstock: the Manolo Blahnik Polka Dot Cowhide Sandals, £350, are pure style); not a type of shoe, but a brand.

No other sandals have Birkenstocks’ hallmark of approval, an allure that has made them a Hollywood classic, loved by actresses like Scarlett Johansson, Julianne Moore, Reese Witherspoon and countless others.

And that despite the fact that for decades no one would have thought Birkenstock glamorous. In fact, the Birkenstock gang is more of a platypus than a flamingo.

Reality star Kendall Jenner in shearling and socks

Scarlett Johansson opts for cozy shearling-lined sandals

Crown actress Claire Foy performs in a fawn studded pair

So what has changed?

Founded in 1774 by Johann Adam Birkenstock in East Germany, the brand remained a family business for centuries, focusing on the manufacture of orthopedic sandals with a gently molded sole that promotes a healthy stride and posture.

But last year the company partnered with L Catterton – a private equity group partly owned by Bernard Arnault, who as head of LVMH is the most powerful man in the world of luxury fashion.

The slightly shabby sandal might not have been the obvious candidate to pique the interest of a man in charge of a fashion stable that includes Dior, Louis Vuitton and Celine. But Arnault didn’t get where he is without having the smartest nose in the business for this lucrative tipping point where the volatility of changing trends translates into long-term success.

And once again his timing is on the money (quite literally, considering the brand saw sales rise 11 per cent to £607.2m in the financial year that ended 2019).

Previously, Birkenstocks were popular with followers of the earth nut, alfalfa, and granola eater scenes in the late 1960s and early 1970s. It wasn’t until the early 1990s, when grunge fashion replaced power dressing and the iconic image of the time was a young Kate Moss in a scrap of slip, that her potential fashion credibility emerged.

But until recently, Birkenstocks mostly stayed under the radar. Alexandra Shulman pictured in her cobalt blue Kyotos

The Waif models of the time, like Kate, Rosemary Ferguson and Amber Valletta, loved her earthy, chic aura. But until recently, Birkenstocks mostly stayed under the radar.

When I bought my first pair about 15 years ago, it was still a relatively insider choice, loved by off-duty fashion editors.

A few years and several pairs later, I converted to the lambskin lined version that combines comfort with indulgence.

Then came Covid. Around the world, stilettos were traded for sneakers and slippers. With nowhere to go and no one to see, comfort became the irresistible driver of footwear – and Birkenstock, which boasts a huge selection (there are currently 656 items on its website as a sign of demand), was in pole position to get it to benefit from this.

Their current popularity is also part of a movement toward less restricted clothing, evident in the casualization of workwear, along with more gender-neutral styles (Birkenstocks are equally popular with men). And the brand has upped its luster with the launch of its upscale 1774 range, which includes a bolder color palette.

The children’s version of the Blue Kyoto, shown

Now Birkenstock’s power is such that the most unlikely designers have enthusiastically collaborated on limited-edition styles. Dior Men’s Kim Jones has designed a gray felt shoe embroidered with flowers inspired by Dior’s 1957 couture.

American fashion house Stussy, meanwhile, have teamed up for a range of covered-toe versions. And the aforementioned Manolo Blahnik contributed a polka dot design and one with rhinestone buckles.

While these limited luxury editions won’t prove as much of a cash cow compared to the mainline ranges, they ensure that Birkenstocks retain a distinctive cachet, meaning they won’t be engulfed by their own ubiquity.

And there is another element driving the Birkenstock movement. Because fashion trends are rarely just about clothes. The rise of wild swimming and the likes of “Ice Man” guru Wim Hof, who have seen the wealthy and influential Austrians and Germans flock to retreats to pay fortunes for strict fasting regimens and cold-water treatments, all inspire a desire for rigor, purity and renunciation of ostentation that fits perfectly with the Birkenstock ethos.

While I’m not planning on taking an ice bath, I’m seriously considering a pair of Birkenstocks Sylt quilted slides in khaki. And maybe even a pair of Birkenstock socks in autumn.