The sun barely rises in the Ashuapmushuan Reserve, 45 minutes south of Chibougamau. We get out of the vehicle and then go to the weapons that are stored in the trunk. It’s too late to turn back. Chief Jean-Philippe Leclerc hands me a small Soviet-made folding rifle that can only hold one cartridge. Unfortunately, if I miss my target, I have to reload. To relieve stress, I tell myself that it’s probably fairer for the animal.
Published at 11:00 am.
To be honest, I never had any desire to hunt. And I had never used a gun before. But I still have my learner’s permit, which allows you to go with an experienced hunter once in your life without having your own certificate – which you get at the end of proper training. . But the opportunity to taste the meat, shot the same day and prepared by a chef, won me over. Finally, Jean-Philippe Leclerc’s recipes can be found in the brand new book Hooké – Adventures and Wild Cuisine by Fred Campbell.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
Ideally harvested at the end of summer, sweet balsam grows near bodies of water.
“For me back then, hunting wasn’t barbaric, but I didn’t understand it, it didn’t make sense,” admits the man who has worked in the kitchens of La Tanière and L’Initiale in Quebec. “But over the years of working in restaurants, I have developed a taste for considering the traceability of the animal protein I consume, to know where it comes from and under what conditions it is raised” , explains the chef.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
Small game hunting is the most accessible as it is practiced along forest trails.
But for Jean-Philippe Leclerc, the interest in a trip to the forest is not just limited to the fact that he can harvest his own meat there. “I was born in Saint-Michel-de-Bellechasse and grew up on the banks of the Saint-Laurent river, it was my playground, close to nature,” he remembers. From then on my interest in nature began. And that’s where I discovered plant picking, thanks to a teacher who did substitute work, I must have been in my third year. »
Myrique Balsam, Dune Pepper, our hunter-gatherer guide used our walk to point out the fruits of the forest, an enriching activity in itself, even if we returned empty-handed.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The capercaillie is characterized by its white meat, similar to that of chickens, while the capercaillie has redder meat and a more pronounced gamey flavor.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The result of our hunt: 9 capercaillie and 2 ruffed grouse. Each hunter is allowed to have 5 birds in his possession per day and may not bring back more than 15 at the end of his stay.
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In shows and locations dedicated to hunting, we often limit ourselves to stalking, chasing and killing. We take photos with our game, we are happy and that’s it. But when you’re in the forest, you can look around, there are mushrooms, there are plants…
Jean Philippe Leclerc
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The necked grouse is characterized by a full tail base with a thin brown crown.
And that’s exactly what small game hunting does, and it’s one of the reasons why it’s the most accessible type of hunting. “Small game remains my favorite elk hunt because it’s a hunt where you can walk around, you don’t have to worry about your smells and sounds, and you can have a conversation,” explains the man who now makes his living as Koch deserves daycare. I go there with the children, I met them when they were very small. And when you walk, you get some fresh air, you think; You’ve seen how many times we’ve said how beautiful it is here! You go hiking and do your grocery shopping in the forest! »
Striving for self-sufficiency
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
A stew made from elk, root vegetables, beer and myrique balm
Jean-Philippe Leclerc has been hunting for more than twelve years, so much so that he rarely buys meat for his family in the supermarket. He is obviously aware that the supply method he has chosen is not for everyone and would in no way be feasible on a large scale. “I live with a reasonable consumption of meat. So if I have a big game like an elk, I can get by with half a carcass for a year, a year and a half,” he tells us. I also have capercaillie, white-tailed deer and a few fish. And I definitely eat a lot of vegetables too. »
“In addition, it really makes us think about the privilege that we are allowed to eat, much more than when we buy it in the supermarket or in a restaurant, you don’t think about its product,” the chef aptly continues. So I have even less desire to waste, you know. »
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Moose, chanterelles, catherines and raspberries
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Ruffed grouse tacos with red cabbage salad with maple syrup and myrique balsam
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Wild turkey breast and chimichurri
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Forest terrine: elk, trumpets, chanterelles, black walnut, balsam fir, Quebec rye
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Jean-Philippe keeps almost everything from the animals he hunts. He candied the stomachs and hearts of the capercaillie and spruce grouse we hunted, and the carcasses were used as broth for a future recipe.
“You thank the animal on the plate, you highlight it,” he emphasizes. For this reason, I think hunters are fundamentally nature lovers, animal welfare lovers, and we need to try to demystify that. There are so many prejudices, we always talk about hunting for the wrong reasons when despicable things like poaching happen. »
There are many people who think the opposite, but I believe that if it is done well, with respect for the animal, it is noble, hunting.
Jean-Philippe Leclerc, chief hunter and collector
And when we eat meat that we have hunted, there is always a story associated with it, Jean-Philippe Leclerc tells us. In fact, I had a lot to talk about at the table after cooking the grouse I had brought back from my first hunt. My gut feeling tells me that it might not be the last time.
Combine business with pleasure
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The new Horizon huts, built in half a dozen game reserves managed by SEPAQ in recent years, are available to rent as part of small game hunting packages.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The Horizon chalets are characterized by large windows and offer all the necessary amenities.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
There are two or three bedrooms per unit.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
Four Horizon cabins are available for rent in the Ashuapmushuan Game Reserve on the shores of Lake Nicabau. They all benefit from an enclosed and heated entrance hall suitable for storing equipment and drying clothes.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
It is advisable to book up to a year in advance to secure your place in a Horizon Chalet, especially during peak periods.
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The Ashuapmushuan Wildlife Management Area is located northwest of Lake Saint-Jean, on both sides of Route 167, and covers nearly 4,500 km2. Its extensive territory and lower hunting pressure, especially in the north of the reserve, make it an ideal location for hunting grouse, sharp-tailed grouse and American grouse. In addition to hunting, fishing is also possible there, especially for zander and pike. You can also go canoeing, rafting and camping.