When Pacha, Ibiza’s superclub known for its decadent dance parties, held its opening night for the new season last month, thousands of ravers lined up to pay homage to the latest superstar DJ and partied until dawn.
But as someone who’s been to Ibiza a dozen times, I’m witnessing how the sand is changing on this Balearic island – and the biggest change is taking place in San Antonio, the bay town in the northwest.
For decades, the infamous West End was the epicenter of 18-30 year old club touring, rowdy Brit behavior abroad and raunchy bachelor parties. Families and anyone wanting a semblance of peace were advised to stay away from San An.
Today it’s a different story. There are still some tacky bars on the Strip, and the Linekers bar is a Three Lions institution. But a 3am curfew has restricted alcohol tourism and smoking is banned on many of the most popular beaches.
Meanwhile, vacationers flock to this natural bay for its gorgeous scenery, upscale spa services, and activities that don’t involve a pint of alcohol. Whisper it, but San Antonio has gotten ambitious.
Bohemian splendour: During a trip to San Antonio, Sian Boyle checks into OKU, where “the beautiful people are content to laze by the adults-only pool” (pictured)
One of the new spots is OKU, a chic hilltop retreat on the outskirts of San An whose holistic wellness program includes gong baths, Reiki sessions, and crystal healing.
Here, beautiful people like to laze around the adults-only pool – one of Ibiza’s largest – and like them, I’m happy to forgo the madness of the club scene and instead enjoy the bohemian splendor here.
At OKU’s restaurant, we’re treated to Japanese fusion cuisine made from wasabi oysters, chicken tsukune and miso black cod. Obviously this is not a Club 18-30 holiday.
Hiking is one of the most popular activities in San Antonio, and Toby Clarke, a Brit who has been organizing tours here since 2010, says he’s seen a huge increase in demand in recent years. “There’s so much more to the island than parties,” he says, explaining how the pandemic has changed the way travelers choose to explore the island.
Guide Toby Clarke tells Sian that tourists are “blown away” by the beauty of Ibiza’s beaches like Cala Saladeta (above).
Sian (not pictured) says OKU’s holistic wellness program includes gong baths, Reiki sessions and crystal healing
Even the bachelor wants a piece of the new action. “We did a walk for 13 guys who lived right in downtown San Antonio last week,” says Toby. “They all had hangovers, but we took them for a walk to Punta Galera.” [nature reserve] on the coast.
“Within 15 minutes you are in a completely different zone; There are caves, cliffs and clear water. They saw the beaches of Cala Saladeta and Platja de Sa Galera and were blown away by all this beauty so close to their hotel.”
Toby’s Ibiza Outdoors offers e-bike tours, not only on trails that wind through the mountains of the west coast from San Antonio, but also along the rugged and remote north of Ibiza.
I’m skeptical about tackling a mountain bike trail, but the motorized bikes require the least amount of fitness to traverse terrain that would otherwise require Herculean endurance.
Sian mountain bikes a trail that takes her to Benirra Beach and Bay (see picture).
My group of 40, 50 and 60-year-olds leisurely bike over 12 miles from San Juan, a tiny village in the center of the island, before stopping on the north shore to enjoy the views.
We return to the beach and bay of Benirras but do not stop without stopping to forage for food and sample the sweet, overhanging loquat fruit.
The ride is punctuated by birdsong and the hissing sound of the chalky dirt roads, punctuated by the stinging winds of pine and rosemary from the fields beyond. It’s hard to believe I’m in one of the party capitals of the world.
Back in San Antonio, the laid-back south of the bay is home to many of the most elegant family hotels.
I’m told that 90 per cent of the guests at the glamorous four-star INNSiDE hotel are British families who come not for the pumping techno and vodka shots but for the water-skiing and sailing boat excursions.
Ninety percent of the guests at INNSiDE (pictured) are British families, Sian learns
The hotel’s panoramic rooftop terrace, infinity pool, and Bali loungers offer the best spot for sunset cocktails without driving into town. However, for those wanting to cross the bay to the livelier end, there’s a regular water taxi service from the secluded golden Cala Pinet beach just outside the hotel’s back door.
No Ibiza trip is complete without a pilgrimage to Café Mambo, the Balearic beats bar, where people from all parts of the island gather on the rocky beach at dusk to watch the sunset.
We cap off our break with cocktails and a bright pink and orange sky, knowing that no matter how much it changes, San Antonio will always lay claim to the most beautiful sunsets in Ibiza.
TRAVEL FACTS
Rooms at the OKU Ibiza start from €350 (about £311) per night, based on two people sharing a superior room with breakfast, okuhotels.com. Double B&B at INNSiDE Ibiza are available from £113 per night (melia.com). EasyJet offers direct flights to Ibiza, return, departing from London Luton Airport, from £57 per person, easyjet.com.