Maybe this routine sounds familiar: you wake up, look in the mirror, and examine the dark, saggy skin under your eyes. You look exhausted or worn out even though you had a good night's sleep. And maybe he looks older than he is.
Dark circles are among the most common skin concerns, says Daniel Friedmann, dermatologist and director of clinical research at Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas. And they are some of the most frustrating things to deal with.
Eye creams and serums that claim to relieve dark circles can be expensive. And most have not undergone “really intensive laboratory or clinical testing,” explains Friedmann, so they are often ineffective.
Since dark circles have multiple causes and can come in different shades such as purple, blue, brown or black there isn't always a single solution to get rid of them. But some treatments can help.
causes
“As we age, the skin around the eyes becomes thinner and loses collagen, allowing the underlying blood vessels to show through and causing a bluish discoloration under the eyes,” explains Friedmann.
At the same time, the skin and muscles under the eyes can become loose, which Friedman says can lead to bags under the eyes that cast a dark shadow.
“Dark circles are also genetic—you're more likely to get them if other people in your family have them,” adds Ivy Lee, a dermatologist in Pasadena, California. And skin tone plays a role: People with darker skin may be more prone to dark circles due to the brownish pigmentation under the eyes.
Allergies can also temporarily worsen dark circles, as can dehydration, smoking, inadequate sleep, or rubbing your eyes.
Creams
Despite claims on product packaging or in advertising, there is no scientific evidence that overthecounter products actually eliminate dark circles, says Ronald Moy, a dermatologist and plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, California.
“I don’t think any of them work. Personally, I never saw any improvement,” he says.
However, Moy has conducted research on a protein called epidermal growth factor in some skin products, which stimulates cell growth in the skin, and said the ingredient has been shown to reduce eye bags when applied topically. Moy said the substance can also lighten dark circles to a moderate degree.
Lee said other eye creams and serum ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, antioxidants or caffeine, can minimize dark circles, but they are only a “quick fix” and will not permanently eliminate them.
For example, she said, products with moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides or petroleum jelly, combined with brightening agents like vitamin C and niacinamide, hydrate and plump the skin under the eyes so that “the underlying blood vessels are not as visible.”
But any improvements you see will only be temporary. And most of the time, you'll get the same hydrating effect with any type of moisturizer it doesn't necessarily have to be specifically for dark circles.
Other treatments
Some treatments can lighten dark circles, prevent them from getting worse, and sometimes eliminate them completely, depending on the cause, Lee said.
*Laser
Fractional laser (also called Fraxel) can remove any brownish discoloration by peeling away the pigmented layer of skin, says Friedmann. Other lasers, such as the Nd:YAG laser, can minimize purple or blue discoloration when reaching blood vessels, he said. And fractional carbon dioxide lasers can minimize the appearance of dark circles by thickening the skin under the eyes.
* Peels
Regular chemical peels with retinol or glycolic acid can prevent dark circles from getting worse, Lee said.
* Microneedling
This procedure involves piercing the skin with small needles to create small wounds and stimulate the skin's repair process. This stimulates the production of collagen, which can tighten, plump and smooth the skin under the eyes.
* Fillers
According to Friedmann, hyaluronic acid fillers (sometimes combined with lasers) can be used to plump the skin under the eyes, making dark circles less visible. However, fillers carry certain risks, such as temporary bruising or swelling.
* Surgery
Doctors can remove excess fat and skin under the eyes to relieve dark circles caused by bags under the eyes. However, for patients whose dark circles have not improved with other treatments, surgery is usually a last resort.
Sometimes a combination of treatments is the best approach, Friedmann said. Many and sometimes frequent procedures may also be required to see results.
And it's not always possible to get rid of them completely, especially if the skin shows signs of aging, Friedmann said.
He recommended seeking treatment as early as possible, such as in your 20s, rather than waiting until age 40 or later when you have less collagen to work with.