In the Marquesas we sing and dance, but not only that. We also eat. This Sunday, for the 14th time, the festival reminded us of the epicurean appetite of the inhabitants of the archipelago. We'll take you to Nuku Hiva for this great shared meal.
(MEL: K.Lienard) M.Chongue • Published December 17, 2023 at 5:20 p.m., updated December 17, 2023 at 5:21 p.m.
The earth of Taipivai shakes. The powerful voices of Marquesan festival-goers resonate deep in the valleys of Nuku Hiva.
Taipivai, home of Umu Kai, the traditional Marquesan food. • ©Polynesia the 1st / A.Tarahu
The scent of Umu Kai permeates the atmosphere as soon as the Marquesan oven is opened. At each stage of the traditional oven, a spell called Nunu'u is chanted. Teva Taviri, group leader of the Ua Huka delegation, explains: “Nunu'u is a whole, which means that as soon as we take the pig out of the oven, there is a special song for it. And when we carry food, there are other incantations that go along with it. And when we arrive and put the dishes on the tables to serve to the guests, there are other incantations. Nunu'u is a series of songs and is intended to celebrate the joy we have in sharing a meal today. »
During each phase of Umu Kai, the Nunu'u (an incantation) is chanted by all festival goers. • ©Polynesia the 1st / A.Tarahu
But to achieve this result, two days of work were necessary. Little hands full of love and patience, like Laiza Deane, one of the chefs at Nuku Hiva: “
The Umu Kai requires two days of preparation. These women give of their time and love to please all festival goers. • ©Polynesia the 1st / A.Tarahu
We have been here since yesterday to prepare for cutting and cooking. And we just took a nap to get some energy and reset. The exercises tend to take place at major events, for example at festivals or when officials arrive. However, I find it very regrettable that our young people did not come forward to help and, above all, to receive this know-how.”
A crowd forms around the delegations, everyone wants to try the specialties of the 6 islands. A young girl testifies: “I eat pork and I like all the dishes here.” Another woman adds: “I wanted to try everything because I really like Kaikai Enana, Marquesan food. »
All dishes were tasted within an hour, there was no waste on the tables. Enough to encourage the delegations for the rest of the Matava'a celebrations.