Updated yesterday at 11:00 am.
Why talk about it?
The place has fascinated me for some time. In the heart of the most touristy part of Old Montreal – which I generally avoid as the souvenir shops and folkloric restaurants don’t attract me – a lovely address has sprung up, hidden in a basement of the Bonsecours market. The aptly named Cave à Manger, part bakery, part wine shop, part cafe and part counter, seemed to contain some very appetizing delights. On a beautiful fall day, as the sun shone on Rue Saint-Paul, I went there to see what was going on… and who the person was behind it all.
PHOTO MARCO CAMPANOZZI, THE PRESS
The owner and baker Raphaël Creton
Who are you ?
For many it is a place of transition, of exit, of work. For Raphaël Creton, Old Montreal is first and foremost his home. His father, the restaurateur Yvon Creton (who opened Chez Alexandre with his brother Alain in the 1980s), ran the restaurant À L’Aventure on Place Jacques-Cartier there for 30 years. And the family lived upstairs at a time when the area was just beginning to develop in terms of restaurants.
In short, Raphaël got into the restaurant business as a small boy. “I did all the jobs: bartender, waiter, cook, I made wine lists…” He kept coming back to the bakery. He began his training at the Institut de Tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ), but learned more on the job, particularly with Christian Faure and James McGuire (Passe-Partout). He even worked at a bakery in Los Angeles for a few months. During the pandemic, he was a waiter at the Brewsky Pub in Marché Bonsecours. This small room next door, underground, served as a preparation kitchen. He saw potential there and opened his first bakery in 2021, supported by the owners of Brewsky, who gave him free rein to realize his vision.
Our experience
The place is fascinating with its pretty wooden terrace with canary yellow parasols and the stairs leading to the bakery cave. Once inside, a small room opens up. A shelf full of beautiful bottles divides the room. At the back we stand in front of the pastry counter: croissant (plain, almond, ham and cheese), chocolate, “Cinna Grizzle” (flaky cinnamon brioche with Madagascar vanilla glaze). These delicacies are made in an artisanal way. The croissants, without food additives, are made with flour from Moulins De Soulanges and butter from New Zealand, the best there is, according to the baker, who states that it takes three days to make!
PHOTO FROM DINING CELLAR FACEBOOK PAGE
The inside of a roll
But the undisputed stars of the place are the rolls, decadent children of the croissant and the filled doughnut. They are very sweet and round, covered in icing and available in different flavors: berries and vanilla, chocolate and caramel, pistachio, lemon… Once sliced, they reveal their creamy filling inside. It’s very, very easy to become addicted: no wonder this creation has helped increase La Cave à manger’s popularity on social networks.
What else do we eat in this basement? The menu is minimalist: sourdough pizza, sold by the slice (I promise to try next time), charcuterie plates, bruschetta, banh mi. The ham and butter sandwich is quite thick with its generous spread of butter (again from New Zealand). sliced white ham, its aged cheddar from Isle-aux-Grues and its small cucumbers packed in a crispy baguette are very satisfying.
PHOTO MARCO CAMPANOZZI, THE PRESS
The menu includes sourdough pizzas sold by the slice.
There are of course breads that are all made from sourdough: country bread, baguette, olive or cheddar fougasse. I enjoyed everything I ate – I wish the olive focaccia was softer to the bite. Raphaël’s philosophy is to offer a well-made product: quality over luxury. No gimmicks or endless variations. In short, to prepare a single type of bread and baguette, but well mastered. Bet accepted!
PHOTO MARCO CAMPANOZZI, THE PRESS
Privately imported wines, a fine selection of wines from Quebec: the wine merchant’s site is certainly a very good reason to make a detour to La Cave à manger.
In our glass
For lovers of natural and Quebec wines, small gems and rarities, the selection at La Cave à Manger is a real eye-catcher – and at more than competitive prices. Thanks to his contacts with several private import agencies, Raphaël is able to get his hands on small, sought-after lots. Cider and beer are also in the spotlight, as are some cocktails – Pastis, Spritz, Mimosa. A small selection of wines by the glass and beers on tap are offered. On the non-alcoholic side, fresh orange juice helps with spleen, and of course you can get your daily dose of caffeine (Montreal roaster Toi Moi & Café).
Price
Pastries start at $3.25 (for the croissant) and go up to $9.75 for the famous roll. For bread, the baguette is $5 and the country bread is $9. A slice of pizza is $6.75, butter ham is $12.50, bruschetta and banh mi – always in limited quantities – are $15. Wines by the glass start at $5.
Good to know
The Cellar à Manger is open daily from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. You order takeout at the counter or sit on the patio; There is no table service. The place and its stairs are not accessible to people with limited mobility, but the terrace is.
386, rue Saint-Paul Est, Montreal