Inspired by a model launched in 1968, this Skipper takes up all the aesthetic codes
In the 55 years that separate these two watches, technology has evolved dramatically and TAG Heuer has integrated the manufacturing of all of its movements. We can ask ourselves whether the new edition in this case would not be more “authentic” than the original from 1968. We can bet that this test bench can answer that question.
The dressing
The Carrera collection was launched in 1964 by Edouard Heuer. After a long break, the collection was relaunched in the 1990s and has never disappeared from the brand’s catalog since. Better yet, she became the tip of its spear. The box is therefore known and controlled. The Skipper has the 39mm diameter of the original models and features the sharp edges of the collection’s iconic horns. The case is now equipped with a magnificent sapphire crystal case, which, in addition to the legibility and resistance of this material, gives the whole a certain elegance. The dial looks and colors true to the original, but also has a small second and a date at 6 o’clock. Only the “0” on the minute counter was replaced by “15”. Precisely on this counter, whose reverse graduation makes it unique: it is dedicated to sea races and regattas. Since sailors must cross the starting line at a specific time, the completion countdown allows them to anticipate the maneuvers before the start in order to cross the line as close as possible to the set time. The meter division went from white to black. An “infidelity” that brings with it an obvious gain in readability. The same applies to the baton-shaped hour and minute hands, which have become wider and are now delicately pierced. Finally, the case is now equipped with a sapphire crystal case back and its water resistance has been increased to 100 m, which is not insignificant for a model called Skipper!
Carrera Skipper automatic chronograph © TAG Heuer
Movement
The brand new caliber TH20-06 is an improved version of the caliber TH02. The functions are controlled by a column wheel and the flywheel is now bidirectional. Despite its frequency of 4 Hz (2.5 Hz for the 1968 model), the movement has a comfortable power reserve of 80 hours. A 15-minute counter is displayed on this Skipper to correspond to the original and respect the function dedicated to this watch. The TH20 base will be available with a more conventional 30-minute counter across the rest of the range. Technically, this movement has already proven itself in terms of chronometry and reliability. The changes made can only improve performance. Aesthetically, this new caliber is a success. It impresses with its robust and sporty appearance and does not lack elegance and a certain sophistication.
The tests
The diameter of the case and the plastic bracelet with folding clasp contribute to the excellent wearing comfort of the Skipper. The bracelet is water-resistant, easy to care for and maintains the aesthetics and original design. Despite the colorful patchwork of the dial, legibility is surprisingly clear regardless of the position of the hands. Technically speaking, the chronograph controls are straightforward and vibrant. Our power reserve measurements all exceeded TAG Heuer’s announced 80 hours and, as our table attests, the chronometry is simply exemplary!
Carrera Skipper automatic chronograph © TAG Heuer
Let’s face it, the history of watchmaking is littered with often dubious reissues that sometimes lose all their substance. To answer the question in our introduction: The skipper definitely does not belong to this category. Its water resistance, its glass case, the black transmission of the counters or the redesigned hands are improvements that perfectly match the vocation and essence of the 1968 model. The same applies to the engine of this new Skipper. Manufacture caliber, automatic (bidirectional), column wheel, date and small seconds display: a considerable number of improvements in absolute respect of the original. It is gratifying to see TAG Heuer’s efforts to focus on its historical foundations (chronographs, precision, reliability) to achieve the maturity of these skippers, which perhaps already marks a new milestone in the brand’s history.