Masters, personalities, sourdoughs in small laboratories, highly acclaimed entrepreneurs, designer labels from the famous old towns, great confectioners, bakers and ice cream makers with a passion for panettone: it makes no difference in the ranking of Panettone from Dissapore.
Our character, if we have one, is the audacity to shuffle the cards, but without the habit of arbitrariness: the house wins, always and in every case. A tasting counter where names and brands are just codes, the result of a careful and thoughtful pre-selection artisanal panettone made without compromise.
For this Ranking 2022 We have limited it to 60 days shelf life of the products – and with great regret we’ve excluded big names – who scour labels even more than usual, who demand cooking so much that they refuse to try the great “too heavy” sourdough products. And in error hierarchy which must of course be present, we have studied disintegrated doughs and unclean developments, unacceptable and acceptable odor defects, malformations or irregularities of the alveoli as defects rather than fruits of craftsmanship.
Because it is still a craft (examined closely) and the error, as they say, is the sign of the hand.
And while sourdough product prices are skyrocketing (you’ll notice the increases) as the crisis presses and war is no less, our editor murmurs: Could it be that some manufacturers are eschewing expensive butters in favor of more pocket-friendly fats? Forgive the light and racy thought, but behind a cough he dared to say “margarine” out loud. But that’s not the place, today we just want to share happy thoughts that are 31 (because of the almost equal merit of the last places).
The best panettone of 2022, from 31st to 1st place
31. Pasticceria Pansa (-1st place)
amalfi
Price: 38 euros
30. Soban (newcomer)
Alexandria
Price: 36 euros
29. Renato Bosco (-24 places)
San Martino Buon Albergo (VR)
Price: 40 euros
28. Chocolat (Newcomer)
Gassino (TO)
Price: 38 euros
27. Follador Bakery (-5 locations)
Pordenone (PN)
Price: 38 euros
26. Infermentum (returned)
Stallavena Lugo (VR)
Price: 33 euros
25. Pasticceria Moschella (new entrance)
Cornaredo (MI)
Price: 35 euros
24. Italo Vezzoli (-4 places)
Carobbio degli Angeli (BG)
Price: 42 euros
23. Forno Gentile (-19 places)
Gragnano (NA)
Price: 37 euros
22. Longoni (new entrance)
Milan
Price: 40 euros
21. Scarcella (new entrance)
Turin
Price: 37 euros
20. Roberto Cantolacqua (returned)
Tolentino (MC)
Price: 38 euros
19. Gelateria Mille (new entrance)
Verona (BS)
Price: 30 euros
18. Fornai Ricci (+ 5 positions)
Mont Aquila (IS)
Price: 36 euros
17. Angelo Grippa (-5 places)
Eboli (SA)
Price: 35 euros
16. Vignola (-5 places)
Solofra (AV)
Price: 35 euros
15. Faiella (new entrance)
San Marzano sul Sarno (SA)
Price: 38 euros
14. Rinaldini (+14 places)
Cerasolo di Coriano (RN)
Price: 39 euros
13. Dolcemascolo (+1 place)
Frosinone (FR)
Price: 39 euros
12. Terminus (+15 positions)
Reggio Emilia
Price: 40 euros
11. Iginio Massari (+6 places)
Brescia
Price: 43 euros
10. The Kiosk (returned)
Long (VI)
Francesco Ballico’s Panettone enters the rankings, notable for its flavors and great elasticity, a sign of excellent work on the leavening. Certainly making it into the top ten is the butteriness, which manages to keep bite after bite from becoming boring. Excellent flavors, imperfect cooking, already noticeable from the too light hazelnut color of the shoe. Characteristic.
Price: 38 euros
9. Casa Manfredi (+15 places)
Rome
Hard to fault Casa Manfredi’s Milanese sourdough product, a classic alto with bold buttery notes. Delightful to the eye, well executed and pleasing to the touch, it shows when cut in all its regular holes. And maybe that’s why the taste, which could be more decisive, diverts our attention.
Price: 40 euros
8. Bombiani
Rome
Frosting is a risk that Walter Musco knows well, who is a pastry designer and for this reason seems to know how to avoid hanging and ugliness: here is the most beautiful sugared almond hat in this ranking, which, if you notice it well, does not me have no icing on the cake. The beautiful panettone of Pasticceria Pompiani is also characterized by the structure and development of the alveoli, best placed in Rome despite a slightly pungent aftertaste that so ends a New Year’s Eve meal.
Price: 38 euros
7. De Vivo (+13 positions)
Pompeii (NA)
Present in this ranking, the De Vivo panettone does not disappoint and indeed returns to its former glory, namely in the top ten. It looks like a homemade pancake, a stuffed animal, so much so that it deviates from the idea inherent in the very classic sourdough product. With a majestic appearance starting from the royal cliff, very buttery, it shines in structure and even gives toasted notes and lemon peel (toasted notes and citrus fruits are unfortunately rare in today’s panettone). Candied fruit might give us more satisfaction, but Pompeii’s “Panmilanese” has other qualities.
Price: 40 euros
6. D&GPatisserie – Denis Dianin (returned)
Selvazzano Inside (PD)
Very lemony and almost spicy, the classic Milano by Denis Dianin re-enters the classification with a complex of aromas of bitter, sweet and sour that has something virtuoso about it. We note that this is a “tasting” panettone, the kind that’s good for enjoying slice after slice and possibly sharing given the intensity. Too much of? No, just take it into account so you don’t get tired unless you’re an orange fanatic.
Price: 36 euros
5. The Wheel (returned)
Perfumo (SA)
This Cilento pastry did not go unnoticed by our editors and was already rated in the pre-Christmas tasting round. Epperò is only now managing to achieve high ratings and the merit is undoubtedly the balance between softness and roasting, so difficult to achieve, in order to keep moisture at the maximum and save on cooking: in this case, the point at which the bitter note of The “Milano” peel and fluffiness are textbook, with a very pleasant crust.
Price: 30 euros
4. Lorenzoni (new signing)
Mount San Savino (AR)
The Valdichiana pastry chef Stefano Lorenzoni stands out for the harmony of flavors in a perfectly soft consistency between woolly threads, unforgettable textures and pronounced notes of vanilla. The editors’ comments lament a too small and too little generous candy that costs Tuscany the podium.
The Valdichiana pastry chef Stefano Lorenzoni
Price: 30 euros (for 750 grams)
3. Ciacco (+4)
parma
One of the editors’ greatest amusements is watching the craftsmen slowly grow, panel by panel, gaining a better and better place in the leaderboard and confirming a bet. The case is that of Stefano Guizzetti aka Ciacco Lab, an ice cream maker from Parma and today a sourdough with solid talent: a newcomer in 2020, in 2021 he was in the top ten and in 2022 he will be on the podium. Very soft snack, generous in candied fruit and raisins on the verge of disproportion thanks to the largest chunks of citrus in our entire test.
Price: 38 euros
2. Bedussi (+11 places)
Brescia (BS)
The work of Francesco Bedussi, yeast maker since 1987 and confectioner in the family business, occupies eleven places and climbs to the top of this ranking, reaching second place. And with the hindrance of a glaze – which in itself does not facilitate the craftsmanship of the panettone – slightly decomposed, with speckles. However, when it comes to spinning, consistency and flavors, we are in the realm of perfection.
1. Andrea Tortora (stable)
Volta Mantovana (MN)
Andrea Tortora keeps last year’s position, first, in the Dissapore ranking dedicated to the best artisan panettone. As we said twelve months ago, it is the aromatic complexity that surpasses the competition, in a great balance between the sweetness of the bite, the aromatic intensity of the blend and the tactile and gustatory quality of the candied fruit.
Fragrant, generous in its use of spices, Tortora’s is a contemporary panettone: despite the super vanilla and pompousness of citrus and very juicy raisins (it’s still Christmas), the sweetness is very limited. On the contrary, the panel perceives a slight but noticeable saltiness. And that is also the reason why one never gets tired of eating it.
Price: 45 euros
panettone artisanal panettone