1 of 13 The couple who traveled with R$ 67 and cycled 11,000 km in 6 years Photo: ARQUIVO PERSONAL The couple that traveled with R$ 67 and cycled 11,000 km in 6 years Photo: ARCHIVE GUYS
She was an architecture student; he of the music. But they both had one passion in common: cycling. A hobby that would soon become a life project (and style).
Iris Magalhães from São Paulo and Djoe Rosa from Rio Grande do Sul, both 28 years old, have cycled more than 11,000 kilometers in Brazil in six years. A journey with no foreseeable return that the couple shares on social networks in real time.
The two met in 2016 at the University of Pelotas in Rio Grande do Sul. And before they met, they went on a 40day bike tour of Uruguay.
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When they returned to college, they began a romance. But something had changed in them. The sense of belonging was no longer the same, according to Iris.
“It seemed like the room had gotten small and I realized how young I was. I told Djoe to go to Mexico by bike. We started organizing and the idea grew,” she tells BBC News Brasil.
But how can you travel to another country without first exploring Brazil? They then decided to start the journey on national territory.
The plan was to leave the south where they lived and explore the six Brazilian biomes.
“We, as Brazilians, shared the same stereotypical view of Brazil and were associated with prejudice. We didn’t expect it to be this big. It is an extremely diverse country.”
2 of 13 The couple began to prepare financially for the trip by selling brigadeiros at the college Photo: FILES PERSONAL The couple began to prepare financially for the trip by selling brigadeiros at the college Photo: FILES PERSONAL
To prepare themselves financially for the venture, the two began selling brigadeiros in college.
First, they had to buy new bikes, since the bikes they used to use to get around had been stolen midway through.
“I paid (for) my bike R$ 50. It’s a 1998 model and one of those things you can buy on the corner. I bought it from a friend and assembled it with other parts. In the end “The whole thing must have cost around R$700,” recalls Djoe.
Iris, on the other hand, got a new bike thanks to a donation. “I made a post on Facebook talking about the theft and a colleague offered it to me. I looked at the bike and started riding.”
With new bikes in hand, they considered what would be most important for a long, inexpensive trip. So they decided to invest in a good tent and a cheap adventure camera to document the trip.
3 of 13 First days of the trip to Guaporé in Rio Grande do Sul in 2017 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE First days of the trip to Guaporé in Rio Grande do Sul in 2017 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
Depart with R$ 67 in your pocket
In February 2017, the two dropped out of university to embark on their adventure.
Leaving Pelotas in Rio Grande do Sul by bike, they rode up the Serra Gaúcha, through the canyon regions along the coast of Santa Catarina, until they reached towns in the southeast.
Since most of the money saved was used to purchase gear and supplies for the trip, the couple started the trip with just over R$50.
“I left with R$17 in my pocket and Iris with R$50,” recalls Djoe.
They say the amount was initially sufficient. That’s because, to capitalize, the pair performed music in the towns they stopped in — Djoe on guitar and Iris on tambourine.
4 of 13 The couple invested in a beautiful tent, pictured here camping in Trancoso, Bahia in 2022 Photo: ARQUIVO PERSONAL The couple invested in a beautiful tent, pictured camping in Trancoso, Bahia in 2022 Photo : PERSONAL ARCHIVE
Back then, six years ago, they reportedly only spent R$300 a month the biggest expense, according to them, was food.
This was only possible thanks to the simple and minimalistic way of life, they say.
“We cook our own food. We sleep on the riverbank, at gas stations, do volunteer work and sleep in people’s homes,” says Iris.
Meanwhile, the couple’s monthly expenses have increased but they still say the main expenses are groceries and bike maintenance.
“Currently it’s around R$ 1,500 to R$ 2,000 (per month)”, they say.
In addition to musical performances, the couple have been weeding, waiting tables and selling brigadeiro to support themselves.
5 of 13 To save money, they usually prepare their own food Photo taken in Mogiquiçaba, Bahia, in 2022 Photo: ARQUIVO PERSONAL To save money, they usually prepare their own food Photo taken in Mogiquiçaba, Bahia, in Year 2022 Photo: ARCHIVE PEOPLE
Over time, they realized the need to professionalize audiovisual production for social networks. And they decided to invest in new equipment.
“At the beginning of the journey we only had an old Iris phone and a ‘Go Pobre’ (cheap adventure camera),” recalls Djoe.
They worked eight hours a day on a farm in Brasília for a month.
Iris worked as a maid at the farm’s hotel while Djoe did general agroforestry work. On the weekends, Djoe still played at the farm’s restaurant, and the two also performed in Brasília. Having the right to food and shelter on the farm, they spent practically no expenses.
6 of 13 The couple even worked as organic construction volunteers in Alto Paraíso de Goiás in 2019 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE The couple even worked as organic construction volunteers in Alto Paraíso de Goiás in 2019 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
After saving money, they went to Paraguay to buy more modern cameras.
The investment was profitable. Since 2020 they are making money from their Youtube channel which started monetizing after 3 years of publication.
They also promote crowdfunding campaigns and run a virtual store selling project stickers and tshirts.
on the go day after day
However, the challenges go far beyond the financial issue. The couple say that when it comes to locomotion, they pedal an average of 60 kilometers a day and that takes a lot of energy.
To make it easier to get there, they use equipment suitable for cycling.
“We use saddlebags, which are bags for luggage. Nothing goes on our body and that makes weight distribution easier. It’s a lot less tiring,” explains Djoe.
Food is also of strategic importance. Being vegetarian, they invest in a diet rich in fruits and vegetables.
And in order not to carry too much excess weight around, they make a point of eating only the amount they need and also use techniques to prevent the food from spoiling.
“We transport the food in pieces of cloth so as not to speed up the decomposition process. We make tomato and peanut butter sandwiches and at the end of the day we go to the market and buy enough groceries to last a few days.”
7 of 13 Security is also well thought out. They often sleep at gas stations or ask local residents to pitch their tents in their backyards. According to them, there are many suspicious people, especially in the big cities, but most of them are aimed at cyclists. — Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE Security is also carefully thought out. They often sleep at gas stations or ask local residents to pitch their tents in their backyards. According to them, there are many suspicious people, especially in the big cities, but most of them are aimed at cyclists. — Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
Security is also carefully thought out. They often sleep at gas stations or ask local residents to pitch their tents in their backyards. According to them, there are many suspicious people, especially in the big cities, but most of them are aimed at cyclists.
And along the way there are pleasant surprises:
“Once we were riding our bikes and a woman rode by, honked her horn and asked us to have breakfast at her place. We followed her, went there, had coffee and then left,” Iris recalls.
And how do you shower? Most often they shower at gas stations. But not always in the traditional way — they say they sometimes have to use a damp cloth, and they’ve even bathed with a mug and watering can.
On the road for six years, the couple has already cycled just over 11,000 kilometers through 17 Brazilian states.
Initially, they spent months in a particular city, but this strategy lengthened the journey too much.
Today, the length of stay varies from a few days to a few weeks, depending on the local attractions and interests of each individual.
At the time of this writing, they were in Porto Velho, Rondônia, and only one biome remained on the list: the Pantanal.
The Greatest Challenge Riding in the “Desert”
On this journey they experienced many adventures. And if you ask what the most challenging part of the route was, they won’t think twice: Jalapão, in the state of Tocantins.
“They call (Jalapão) the ‘Desert of Water’ and it was almost crazy to explore it by bike. 100% of people said we were crazy and we were going to die,” recalls Djoe.
They left the Federal District for Jalapão in 2019. The journey between the towns of Ponte Alta do Tocantins and Mateiros was 210 kilometers with virtually no stops. On the way you could only see a few locals.
8 of 13 Section of the “endless” road between Ponte Alta do Tocantins and Mateiros Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE Section of the “endless” road between Ponte Alta do Tocantins and Mateiros Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
Since it was the dry season, the temperatures were high with a wind chill of up to 50 degrees in the morning.
And it wasn’t easy at all to stay hydrated. They say they often had to travel 50 kilometers to find a source of water. But sometimes they were lucky enough to be able to count on the generosity of the passing tour guides.
“It was the tourism people who supported us. And there was even a guide who left us food.”
But the biggest challenge, according to the couple, was coping with this terrain. They had to get off the bikes.
“We pushed the bikes and it took us four hours to cover the three kilometers.”
9 of 13 Resting in the shade of bikes in Jalapão Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE Resting in the shade of bikes in Jalapão Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
When they got to the local residents, they even heard that they should throw away the bikes because they would obstruct the crossing.
However, they remember encountering unexpected rides along the way.
In this region of the country there were 40 days. And despite the difficulties pedaling, the pair said they felt complete.
“We were so happy, the people were so amazing. The scenery is very beautiful, a long sandy road and nothing on either side. We went there several times, set up the tent, and nobody came by at night,” they remember. .
Other obstacles (and dangers) on the road
10 of 13 Visiting the rock formations in the Catimbau Valley in Pernambuco in 2022 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE Visiting the rock formations in the Catimbau Valley in Pernambuco in 2022 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
This wasn’t the only perrengue they went through. Although, according to her, the weather can be one of the biggest setbacks.
You remember that driving in the rain is also complicated and not considered safe. And sometimes weather conditions add up to unforeseen events, like a flat tire.
“One time in São Paulo state it was raining heavily and Iris’ bike tire blew out and I literally had to stand there and guard him with the umbrella while she fixed the tire. It’s crazy.”
Another time, in the strong sunshine of inland Rio Grande do Norte, Iris’ bike tire burst eight times they recall being very tired, almost dehydrated. But there was no other option but to fix the problem.
11 of 13 Rainy day in Minas Gerais in 2018 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE Rainy day in Minas Gerais in 2018 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
In addition, on many highways, car and truck drivers show no respect for cyclists.
Once, right at the beginning of the journey, Iris had an accident. She braked hard as she pedaled, and the bike skidded between the rocks. She hit her head and passed out.
Since Djoe was already a bit ahead, he couldn’t see what was happening. When it stopped, he counted to 100, and when she didn’t appear, he started over. Then he met Iris, who was lying on the street and was being supported by a man.
“I couldn’t remember things, they asked if I had been in an accident and I didn’t. My head hurt a little and I didn’t really know what happened.”
Djoe knocked on the door of an elderly couple who were initially suspicious and sought help:
“They asked me to take Iris there and I did. They saw that she was hurt and called SAMU. She was treated at the hospital and everything went well,” recalls Djoe.
12 of 13 Flat tire while cycling in the countryside of Rio de Janeiro in 2018 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE Flat tire while cycling in the countryside of Rio de Janeiro in 2018 Photo: PERSONAL ARCHIVE
They ended up spending almost four days at this couple’s home.
After the accident, however, Iris was unsure about getting back on the road.
“It was then that I started wondering if this was something for me, I kept thinking. It was mentally difficult. I had to overcome that to keep pedaling.”
Disruptions and accidents aside, they say the stunning landscapes are undoubtedly a reward. But they claim it’s the people who have shaped them the most over the years on the road.
They believe that they have managed to get a closer look at the plurality of Brazil.
“We realized how incredible our country is and what our country, our people, really are. A painful story. It’s almost unbelievable that it has all of that at once. The beauty of Brazil is its diversity,” they summarize.
13 of 13 Adventures in South America Photo: Adventures in South America Adventures in South America Photo: Adventures in South America
Adventures in South America
After traveling around Brazil for almost six years, Djoe and Iris want to travel to the Andes from the second half they want to explore the countries of South America.
The couple would like to start their journey in Bolivia, cross into Peru and then continue on to Ecuador and Colombia.
They call the project “Courage in the Andes”, an analogy to the name of their profile on social networks “Courage in Bagage” (@coragemnabagagem).
And they started a crowdfunding campaign to help buy coldweather gear and clothing.
“This international phase will require more technical equipment and appropriate clothing, which are expensive outside the country. Cycling at 3,000 meters is something else,” they explain. “We will face extreme cold.”
Their plan is to complete that roadmap in a year — and they say they’re not thinking of going back to the traditional way of life for now.