Jackie, our conductor, announced, “We’ll be there soon, Darwin. Passengers in the front carriages will arrive at 2.30pm; if you’re at the back of the train, it’s more like three without a quarter.
Ghan, one of the longest trains in the world, hauled 44 wagons across Australia to the Northern Territory. That makes it nearly a mile; and besides being one of the longest, it is also one of the most luxurious.
Pullmans have been with us since the 1840s. The Trans-Siberian Line, the West Highland Line, the Pride of Africa – they all evoke romance, adventure and, for those in first class, impeccable comfort. But from day one, they had their detractors.
Turn around: Mal Rodgers travels through the bush aboard The Ghan, one of the longest trains in the world (pictured)
An Englishwoman in the early 20th century spoke of “the vulgar corruption that abides on them today.” That’s what Lady Chatterley was talking about on the Orient Express.
Hedonism was not always present. Some coaches had pianos and organs installed (for those who want to enjoy church service), as well as a strange library, sometimes a cowshed. Tsar Nicholas II was so passionate about milk that it was reported that during a state visit to Germany, his train towed two wagons with cows and farm workers.
In today’s Ghan Train there are no cattle, no organ, no library. But luxury and pampering are guaranteed. Hedonism that you have to secure.
Ghan traveled about 1,850 miles between Adelaide (pictured) in South Australia and Darwin
The route, which crosses the Stuart Highway in South Australia, is “one of the largest rail journeys in the world”.
“From The Ghan, you’re as likely to see a camel as you are a kangaroo,” Mal wrote
He made the return trip between Adelaide in South Australia and Darwin on top of the Northern Territory – about 1,850 miles – twice a week. One of the largest train journeys in the world takes 54 hours, including a 4-hour stop at Alice Springs. Sometimes the train stops early in the morning (say 5.30 to 6 am) if there is a particularly good sunrise.
Until 1929, the last stage of the journey had to be done on a camel. Not a breath of it now. If you wish, you can stay in your Platinum class cabin, which includes a private bathroom. The bed becomes a comfortable sofa so you can sit and watch Outback; see if you can spot camels. Today, Australia has the largest population of wild dromedaries in the world. From Gan you are as likely to see a camel as a kangaroo.
“If you wish, you can stay in your Platinum cabin, which includes a private bathroom,” writes Mal.
A waiter serving champagne to Gan. According to Mal, train prices are not cheap, but include all your standard gourmet meals and drinks in Queen Adelaide’s dining cars.
Gold Service has three cab options: Gold Superior, Gold Twin and Gold Single. It’s not as plush as Platinum, but it’s still comfortable. Prices are not cheap, but include all your standard gourmet meals and drinks in Queen Adelaide’s dining cars: breakfast, two-course lunch and three-course dinner.
In the Outback Explorer lounge at the front of the train, the chablis was as cool as I was. This is the perfect place to meet your companions or really see the Outback through its wide windows.
There is bar service and snacks throughout the day, and in the evening, when the sun sets over the distant horizon, a song can sometimes erupt. On my second night, most people tried to join the spontaneous version of Waltzing Matilda. Judith, a South African lady, turned to me and said, “I’m sure I heard that in music once.”
Storyteller: Aboriginal hunter in Uluru. Passengers can get an extra upgrade to visit the famous rock formation
Ghan is “an amazingly attractive way to see the forbidden landscape of Australia”
Singing may not be in tune, but the people serving are definitely. They are cheerful, efficient and friendly, in keeping with the casual atmosphere on board.
Dressing is informal during meals – although several people enjoyed dinner. Des from New Zealand was traveling for the first time. He drank his second gin and tonic before dinner. “It has always been my dream to make this trip,” he said. “As funny as it is, I would wear my special St. Patrick’s Day costume.” It is exactly the same as all my other costumes, except that my name and address are painted on the back. There is no need for that here. Someone can just take me to my cabin and push me inside. Of course, the wine and gin flowed freely.
Platinum Club is the exclusive section down the train – cocktails, barista coffee and snacks are part of the deal, and dinner is also served here. The train suffered a long break due to Covid, but services were finally resumed. I was waiting for The Ghan at Keswick Terminal in Adelaide.
Satellites were now gathering on the platform. A gentleman from the nearby train spotting community apparently wanted to tell the details. I can anoracically confirm that Ghan locomotives are Pacific National NR engines. The name “Gan” probably comes from the Afghan camels that once worked in the wilderness.
We finally pulled out. Ghan walks calmly through endless bushes, which at one point become Outback. We passed through agricultural land, prairies with blue bushes and semi-deserts, where the bush vegetation broke through the dry red soil. The landscape was glistening – we passed through some of the hottest parts of Australia. About 40 c (104 f) means it’s nice again.
Ghan, who returns twice a week, stops for four hours of landing in Alice Springs (pictured)
As Mal nurses hard gin and tonic, Gan races across the rare Simpson Desert, pictured
TRAVEL FACTS
Tickets for The Ghan’s four-day trip from Adelaide to Darwin cost £ 1920 one way, including food and drink (journeybeyondrail.com.au). Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) London to Adelaide from £ 893 back.
Right after Alice Springs, we started racing at high speed through the rare Simpson Desert. It has an astonishing vastness: 70,000 square miles. This is more than twice the size of Ireland. My mind trembled; but hard gin and tonic seemed to calm me down.
The days pass hypnotically, transcendentally evenly, with time almost stopped. Fans of irony will enjoy this, because with the advent of the railway, time has been imposed on everyone, whether we go somewhere or not. And yet today, the laziest way to travel is by train. And so we headed north.
Darwin is in what Australians call the top end. This is a rural place. When Ghan arrived on his first voyage on the new line, a group of about a hundred Darwinists lined up on the tracks and headed for the passengers. Not as a protest, just for craic.
Ghan is an amazingly attractive way to see the forbidden landscape of Australia and some of its more aggressive climates – wastelands, bushes, deserts, endless plains. But this is Australia from a comfortable chair, with champagne on ice and the sun setting over the distant prairie with blue bushes.
And finally back in action.