At this point in the year, the days begin to grow again and the night mist allows chisels to emerge, the so-called autumn bulbs (freesias, anemones, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, calla lilies, cannas, crocosnias, Frenchies). ). , lilies…) must have been underground for months now. They are called fall bulbs because they should ideally be planted between September and December. For latecomers who don't want to miss out on the spectacle of bulbous flowers in spring and summer, there are certain species that allow for slightly later planting. These are the so-called winter onions, which we can still plant in time even in cold January. Muscaris, amaryllis, lily, dahlia cactus, lilium and ranunculus are among the most grateful plants.
Onion plants have an underground organ that accumulates nutrients when the above-ground part dies to sprout again the following year. In addition to onions, the broad and heterogeneous group of onion plants also includes tuberous plants (cyclamen, begonias, dahlias…), horny plants (freesias, saffron…) and rhizome plants (lily, calla…). They all agree that after the flower and leaves wither, the underground organ remains in a dormant phase until the hot-cold climate cycle activates its buds again the next year.
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“In order to germinate, the bulbs must survive a period of cold soil underground. Sometimes 15 days of low temperatures are enough for the process to start as soon as the warmth arrives; Better than four weeks, in which, if it is not so cold, the bulb may not bloom much,” says Jesús S. Viñambres from Madrid florist Lufesa and member of the Spanish Florists Association. The gardening calendar is never accurate. “The planting limit depends on the region we are in and what the climate is like in winter,” says the expert.
Snowdrops, freesias and cyclamen at the start of the year
Every year around February, cyclamen, snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis), crocuses and freesias are the first bulbous plants to surprise with their flowers. A few weeks later the daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, anemones and wild muscaris arrive. However, since the end of last year it has been possible to find pots with flower bulbs already in bloom at many florists. These are forced bulbs that have been subjected to a simulated temperature contrast process in the nursery: first rigorous cold and then a stay in a warm greenhouse. This makes it possible to trick the flower bulbs and make them bloom “à la carte”.
Forced hyacinths in the nursery are already blooming and will be sold in a flower shop in Madrid at the end of December.
Once the flowering period is over, it is generally ideal to dig up the bulbs and store them properly until it is time to plant them again next fall. There are specific guidelines for preserving flower bulbs from one year to the next so you can enjoy their blooms for several springs. The first thing is not to rush. “This process requires patience because if we remove the bulb immediately after flowering, it will become smaller and weaker and produce poorer quality flowers. It is best to wait until the flower has wilted before cutting. And then wait until the leaves deteriorate to do the same at ground level. While the plant withers at its natural rate, the bulb continues to grow and store energy for the next flowering,” warns Jesús S. Viñambres.
Once we have cut off all the above-ground part of the withered plant, we must remove the bulb, being careful not to puncture or scratch it. The best way is to remove it with the help of a shovel next to the substrate that surrounds it and then carefully remove the soil with a sieve, shaking it lightly or straining it with a brush. Once clean, any hollow, soft or rotten bulbs must be removed, those that have multiplied must be separated and spread out on newspaper to dry in the sun or indoors if the weather does not permit it. When completely dry, they can be stored in a cool, moisture-free place in a thick paper bag or wrapped in newspaper in a cardboard or wooden box. “If you have a garden, you can have the bulbs of the most resistant species buried in peat to protect them from frost,” says the expert.
Daffodils (“Narcissus bicolor”) in the Royal Botanical Garden of Madrid last February.
If digging is not possible, the bulbs could remain buried and allowed to grow wild as they would in the wild, “although flower production could be reduced, either because there are too many bulbs competing for nutrients to reproduce in the substrate or.” because they suffer from frost,” explains the florist. In this case, they would be treated as perennial plants and allowed to sprout spontaneously year after year. They can be covered with pine bark to prevent frost from penetrating the substrate. If they are in pots, the pots can be placed in a place protected from the cold to protect them from frost. “You have to consider the specific needs of each type of bulb as some are more frost resistant than others. The cold weather in our region also influences it. In places with very cold temperatures there could be damage if buried, but in temperate areas of southern Spain they could survive. Dahlias, lilies, irises, alliums and callas usually stay on the ground,” adds Viñambres.
Light bulbs in good company
In horticulture, the bulbs of tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses and gladioli are usually obtained. “They are extracted to replant them at the ideal time to ensure their flowering the following year. A trick to spur this bloom and enjoy it sooner in the garden is to force the bulbs like in nurseries. To do this at home, you would have to put them in the refrigerator, being careful not to let them come into contact with apples, pears, peppers, onions, tomatoes or other fruits and vegetables, as the ethylene they give off will accelerate ripening would the bulbs, causing them to age and become damaged.
Forced hyacinths in the nursery are about to bloom and will be sold in a flower shop in Madrid at the end of December.
To ensure vegetation in flower beds and flower beds in the months when the bulb plant has not yet germinated, the bulbs can be combined with annuals, biennials or even with small, low-growing shrubs such as thyme or verbena. The height must not exceed the stem of the tubers so as not to cover them when they germinate. “The rule is that they are plants that do not prevent the penetration of the sun's rays and whose roots allow the bulbs to survive. And do not mix them with acidophilic plants – camellias, hydrangeas, azaleas, gardenias, rhododendrons… – that require low pH substrates, unlike bulbous plants that prefer less acidic soils,” adds the expert of the Spanish Florist Association.
With the calendar for 2024 almost intact, the first cyclamen, freesias, tulips and galanthus are already bringing color into the winter. Prepare the shovel, brush, newspapers and old cardboard so the show can be repeated in 300 days.