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White villages like Cortegana characterize the area between Huelva and the Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche.
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Stefanie Bisping
Spaniards, at least those in the south, cannot imagine Christmas without Iberian ham. Possibly the best comes from the village of Jabugo.
Miguel Prieto Moro sharpens the knife. The ham cutter is at the table in a crisp white shirt, black bow tie and black apron: an excellent example of his craft, which here is revered as art. He rests his gloved left hand on the ham, which is attached to a support along with the hoof. The right hand uses the knife. With controlled seriousness, he cuts a slice and places it on a plate. “Take the slice in your hand and feel its texture,” he advises. “Then put it in your mouth, let it rest on your tongue for three seconds and take care of the roof of your mouth.”
3rd generation ham slicer
Four aromas can be detected in a ham, explains Prieto, and some experts even recognize up to seven. This does not happen with any other product. “We have been making ham here in Jabugo for 600 years. Other countries tried to copy it – without success.” In addition to traditional animal husbandry, the local microclimate is of particular importance, which also distinguishes the “jamón Ibérico” product from the competition in western Spain. Everything together not only results in an extremely tasty ham, but also gives Jabugo the title of Spanish City of Gastronomy in 2023.
The pasture area for pigs must be very large. Stefanie Bisping
The secrets of pig farming are passed down from generation to generation, as are those of the art of butchering. Miguel Prieto Moro succeeded his grandfather and father in this profession.