Guillaume Ptak/The Daily Beast
This story contains images and descriptions that will disturb you.
IRPIN, Ukraine—This suburb northeast of Kyiv has become one of the most hotly contested and iconic battlegrounds of Russia’s brutal invasion of Ukraine. It was claimed this week that Ukrainian forces managed to defeat the invaders after hundreds of civilians were slaughtered as Russia advanced on the capital.
A few days after the mayor announced the liberation of Irpin, we set out to see for ourselves.
After a 20-minute drive from Kyiv on Thursday, a French colleague, myself and our driver Sasha arrive in Stoyanka on the western outskirts of the capital. The place is devastated: a gas station collapsed under fire and burnt-out vehicles lie on the highway to Jytomyr. This is one of the last checkpoints on the way to Irpin.
The weary members of the Territorial Defense manning it are trying to dissuade us from going any further. “It’s not safe there!” warns Viktor, a twenty-something carrying an AK-74 in a sling. He invites us to their base for coffee, a former Georgian restaurant called Radio Tbilisi. We share a cigarette and discuss our idea of going to Irpin. He refuses. The entire city has not been declared safe and remains within range of artillery and missiles.
After weighing the risks, we decide to try our luck anyway. “It’s your responsibility,” Viktor sighs as he shakes our hands.
A winding road through a forest leads us to the entrance of Irpin. As we approach the city, Sasha stops the car. About 500 meters further, a black car with a white “V” sprayed on is blocking the road. His windows seem broken, his trunk is open. We hesitate. “It could be the Russians,” says our driver cautiously. About five minutes later, a Ukrainian soldier emerges from the forest. We ask him if it’s safe to move forward. He shrugs. “Maybe.” We choose it.
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