In the fashion world, fast fashion dominates, that is, mass production of clothing intended to be worn only for a short time (low quality and very low price), then thrown away and replaced with new models. A production system that, however, has an environmental and social impact on the entire community. Companies know this and try to improve their image with sustainability promises that often have no concrete confirmation. The deception of the consumer, which includes extensive communication campaigns that imply that the entire production model is “green,” is known as “greenwashing.” But how can the consumer distinguish a false eco-label from a real one?
The most detailed report is Greenpeace's Greenwash Danger Zone, which examined the alleged sustainability labels of 29 brands, including Detox Commitment participants such as Zara, H&M and Primark. Labels that could hide a very different reality than the one presented to us.
Sustainability of BCI cotton
Cotton is one of the most commonly used fibers in the fashion industry and is associated with significant environmental impacts, such as enormous water consumption (about 2,700 liters to produce a single T-shirt), pesticides, fertilizers and the use of GMO seeds . The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) was launched in 2005 with the aim of promoting more sustainable production through agricultural practices that reduce the use of harmful chemicals. According to the 2021 Organic Cotton Accelerator report, only 20% of cotton grown worldwide is BCI certified in 2021. Little thing. And there is no guarantee that what little is really sustainable is because the entire supply chain, i.e. the path of cotton from cultivation to final production, is not transparent and the standard also does not prescribe a binding restriction threshold for the use of pesticides. In reality, BCI branded cotton uses up to 67% pesticides compared to conventional cotton (Textile Exchange 2021 report). H&M, which produces around 3 billion garments annually, certifies 70% of its cotton garments to BCI standards.
Viscose & Co
Artificial cellulose fibers such as viscose are often presented as a sustainable choice. We see. For each kilogram of fiber produced, between 70 and 140 liters of water is required. In addition, the use of harmful chemicals such as carbon disulphide is required (CanopyStyle Report). The raw material for producing the cellulose necessary to produce the fabric comes from trees. According to the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), only 14% of the cellulose used for viscose production comes from certified sources, that is, from forests that have been assessed and managed according to internationally recognized forest sustainability standards such as the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) or the programs for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC). When a wood or forest is certified, it means that its management follows good practices to conserve biodiversity, protect the rights of local communities and sustainably manage forest resources.
The Primark collection
Primark, the Irish company with an annual turnover of almost 6 billion, has developed an internal sustainability program called PSCP (Primark Sustainable Cotton Program) in which it self-certifies the quality of the materials used. However, the data is not reported anywhere and the environmental benefits data have not been published at this time. Additionally, there is no external, third-party verification of the company's sustainable operations, which is required for materials such as organic cotton and recycled polyester. In 2022, Primark also launched a limited-edition collection called EarthColors® by Archroma, consisting of 22 items made with natural dyes made from food and plant waste. It's a virtuous move, but we're talking about 22 items here, while the rest of the huge catalog continues to rely on the use of toxic chemical-based dyes.
H&M is accused of greenwashing
H&M, the world's second-largest clothing company by sales volume, was dragged to court in 2022 following a greenwashing lawsuit from American marketing student Chelsea Commodore. The controversy concerned the “Conscious Choice” collection. Commodore said the sustainability information provided by H&M was misleading following an investigation by Quartz, a popular US online news and media site. H&M used a rating system based on the Sustainable Apparel Coalition's (SAC) Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI) to inform customers about each product's environmental impact, with (according to Quartz) more than half of reviews rating them as more environmentally friendly than they actually were. Following the complaint, H&M removed reviews of its items and SAC Group stopped using them.
With the Green Deal, the European Union has proposed a plan to create an efficient and sustainable growth model to combat climate change and protect the environment. In the area of fashion, the Agreement on Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition was adopted by the European Council and Parliament in September 2023.
The aim is to create a circular economy through four areas of intervention:
1. Ecodesign: The directive sets minimum requirements (sustainability, materials, recyclability, durability, repairability, reuse) that manufacturers must comply with in order to gain access to the European market.
2. Traceability and transparency of the supply chain: Manufacturers must provide detailed information about the origin of raw materials, working conditions in the production chain and the overall environmental impact of the product life cycle.
3. Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): requires producers to manage waste in a sustainable manner, for example by implementing separate collection programs, collaborating with specialized recycling organizations and promoting sustainable designs.
4. Product trade: Producers who comply with sustainability regulations along the entire production chain are supported by EU trade agreements.
A good example: the Slow Fiber project
Ultimately, it is always consumer sensitivity that pushes companies to change production models. The more aware they are, the harder greenwashing becomes. In Italy, the Slow Fiber project, launched in November 2022, creates a sustainable and ethical production model along the entire supply chain. Companies joining must adhere to ESG principles and include audits and controls. To date, there are around twenty companies that already meet the required requirements: Oscalito l'Opificio, Quagliotti, Remmert, Pettinatura Di Verrone, Tintoria 2000, Angelo Vasino Spa, Olcese Ferrari, Tintoria Felli, Manifattura Tessile Di Nole, Holding Moda, Lane Cardate, Italfil, Pattern, Maglificio Maggia, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Gruppo Albini, Botto Giuseppe, Finishing and Dyeing Ferrari. They are all able to trace the entire textile supply chain (or a large part of it) and have the most important certifications such as OEKO-TEX, RWS, FSC, GRS, GOTS Global Organic Textile, ZDHC. Of course, prices are slightly higher, but the product is of better quality, has a longer lifespan, workers are protected and production processes have less impact.