Life sometimes needs detours that later enable the realization of an even more fulfilling dream. This is the case at La Marelle, where young chef Carlos Melgar's expertly balanced cuisine shines through.
Published at 11:00 am.
The founding trio, consisting of Carlos, Brendan Lavery Breier and Taylor D'Ottavi, met for the first time at the now defunct Public House. Even then, Carlos and Taylor talked about opening “La Marelle” one day. But first they landed at the Air-conditioned Room, a popular restaurant opened in 2021 by Brendan and Harrison Shewchuk on the corner of Saint-Laurent Boulevard and Beaubien Street.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Beneath this tangle of sorrel and Louis D'or cheese lies raw and cooked kohlrabi.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The tender steak and maitake, licked by the flames of the Japanese grill, form the “strong” dish of the menu.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The wonderful maitake mushrooms are licked by the flames.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Taylor D'Ottavi selects wines from La Marelle.
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When Aaron Langille, chef-owner of the late Diplomate, just steps from the air-conditioned Salle, decided to close his space, the three friends saw an opportunity to expand a bit. It was about a year ago.
With its second room at the back, which can be privatized, the space can accommodate at least forty guests. At the front, the layout remains the same as in the “Diplo” era, with a very long counter behind which the kitchen team is busy. Watching the chefs tame the Japanese grill and carefully prepare the dishes is one of the joys of this unique place.
To design the space to his liking, Brendan again turned to the man who gave the air-conditioned space a very relaxed personality, the great decor designer François Séguin. His son Gabriel Scott Séguin also took part. The walls are decorated with paintings by the painter Susan G. Scott, wife and mother of this famous family. The result is particularly warm.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The long bar from which you can watch the kitchen
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
You can feel the warmth of La Marelle from the outside.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Chef Carlos Melgar heats up the Konro, the Japanese grill.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Carlos Melgar, Taylor D'Ottavi, Cédric Larocque, Sarah-Jane Patry and Brendan Lavery-Breier make up the La Marelle team.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Sarah-Jane Patry and Taylor D'Ottavi are waiting for you!
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With its playful name, La Marelle aims to be one of those welcoming “bistronomic” addresses where you can easily enjoy a drink and a meal at the counter (or more if you want!).
The menu is short and includes about ten options, including desserts. Carlos is of Salvadoran origin and has lived in Montreal for 11 years. He is one of those chefs who perfectly embodies the metropolis's current culinary identity. We couldn't reduce his cuisine to a single heritage. In any case, the French basics are there, with terrine, trout sprinkled with brunoise, poached pear, etc. But there is also a golden aguachile and sweetbreads on a relajo sauce, whose mix of peppers and spices is reminiscent of Mexican mole.
Taylor recommends accompanying these non-flat dishes with beer (Labatt 50 or Wills!) or wine. Someone who has worked in restaurants in all corners of the world, like me, has a penchant for craft wines that are straightforward and taut. La Marelle is a balancing act.
129, rue Beaubien West, Montreal